tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-82063086776928195272024-03-12T19:49:50.350-07:00MakerMonkeyMakerMonkeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05791331445343616307noreply@blogger.comBlogger26125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8206308677692819527.post-25250390570997091312022-11-26T00:17:00.007-08:002022-11-26T08:49:52.589-08:00Renovating a classic Italian Scooter<p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1fLkZlWICo4YXxXLYA3lo09SRjzOmULWAuztUdqtsCrfDr16WLwxzvivzaD2rTBf0-gUkceFoL7ALlVLR5xap8EDVNRi5szXxwP4bDOiu7JoEpEGddIReH-pv4gPIVDk3Fk3yi4OXY_ztyIj9v49DXvr5HaFaSkINVU-KCp84Qy-dYzYMq0O9kKieew/s1849/20210912_173333.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1155" data-original-width="1849" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1fLkZlWICo4YXxXLYA3lo09SRjzOmULWAuztUdqtsCrfDr16WLwxzvivzaD2rTBf0-gUkceFoL7ALlVLR5xap8EDVNRi5szXxwP4bDOiu7JoEpEGddIReH-pv4gPIVDk3Fk3yi4OXY_ztyIj9v49DXvr5HaFaSkINVU-KCp84Qy-dYzYMq0O9kKieew/s320/20210912_173333.jpg" width="320" /></a>The Iso Milano was a vintage Italian motorscooter manufactured from 1957 to 1963 by Iso Rivolta, a company best known for its Isetta microcar. While relatively unknown today compared to its contemporary counterparts from Vespa and Lambretta, the Iso motorscooter <a href="http://isomilano.com" target="_blank">was prized in its heyday</a> for its durability and beautiful styling.</p><p>My personal history with with one particular Iso Milano goes back a long way, starting with when my dad purchased the vehicle in pieces from a coworker more than 40 years ago. He assembled it, got it running, and painted it with blue and aqua rattle cans. It was the vehicle I ever drove, when, at age 14, I rode it into an apple tree at a slothful 5 miles per hour, completely oblivious about what a clutch was and how to operate one.</p><p>Later, the scooter became my daily commuter at UC Berkeley, where I learned to tinker with it and keep it running (barely) until I graduated to a motorcycle and returned it to my parents. The scooter spent many years unused and forgotten, rusting away in my parent's backyard, until I learned it was going to be scrapped. I decided to rescue it. I took it apart, fixed it up, had parts re-chromed, and gave it my own new rattle can paint job, this time in bolder contrasting colors of white and red.</p>
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<p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHZe_2UB9siNWj4mAY2DRB6Kra65qflwKnNDgBBCKo6i3X-HBsw167Git93Z2x0G37DHVnf_D2l4COXrknkiHfdSWRW1me_1Zb1S1yjaPpSsUjeVu4Ykr7BkKUIk79m1ioubtvI6TlE5_2Gd8yR9kLw5iKLRGJCklRNXtsPlUflhaXmjBKXzVK3h-kKA/s2560/20210703_165401.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIYl59GijkCwJ8b_s1Ghha0QJnAsnZ96rWeAjP4B50hqZwt1ENi4tX_DzPEHi_7-93wM22YHkLF5ewgrQpje0N85ssaJMeJYPLuNGM3lagqcRogf0YDPq6XC3tSSiBKV6jzTgIBpeeuqu0XFFUfemplesAvpTXSgvsu59ztjDH-4lOH-NPCAJLFjp5GA/s2560/20210703_165406.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;">
<img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="2560" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIYl59GijkCwJ8b_s1Ghha0QJnAsnZ96rWeAjP4B50hqZwt1ENi4tX_DzPEHi_7-93wM22YHkLF5ewgrQpje0N85ssaJMeJYPLuNGM3lagqcRogf0YDPq6XC3tSSiBKV6jzTgIBpeeuqu0XFFUfemplesAvpTXSgvsu59ztjDH-4lOH-NPCAJLFjp5GA/s320/20210703_165406.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
And that's how the scooter has sat until the pandemic, when looking for ways to occupy myself, I decided to apply some of my more recently developed Maker skills. I wanted to bring the Iso up to a whole new level, and that included a proper glossy automotive paint job with other finishing touches.</p>
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<p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHZe_2UB9siNWj4mAY2DRB6Kra65qflwKnNDgBBCKo6i3X-HBsw167Git93Z2x0G37DHVnf_D2l4COXrknkiHfdSWRW1me_1Zb1S1yjaPpSsUjeVu4Ykr7BkKUIk79m1ioubtvI6TlE5_2Gd8yR9kLw5iKLRGJCklRNXtsPlUflhaXmjBKXzVK3h-kKA/s2560/20210703_165401.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="2560" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHZe_2UB9siNWj4mAY2DRB6Kra65qflwKnNDgBBCKo6i3X-HBsw167Git93Z2x0G37DHVnf_D2l4COXrknkiHfdSWRW1me_1Zb1S1yjaPpSsUjeVu4Ykr7BkKUIk79m1ioubtvI6TlE5_2Gd8yR9kLw5iKLRGJCklRNXtsPlUflhaXmjBKXzVK3h-kKA/s320/20210703_165401.jpg" width="320" /></a>I began by disassembling the vehicle, carefully sanding away rust and loose layers of faded and discolored spray paint, welding some cracks in the leg shield and foot rests and doing other minor repairs. </p>
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<p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFyes5ibY1APSkTX-2ZhpBWqIXzqxpNrWChcNcf5yrLjuc45hDejkLMJcu4DtqQv3KU5uMugr2iFmm8fwqfk4Bt8yXIhovaR-V93zFdELnOo3mDPA2JeA8iQaAgW-g4o9nhwO4gbHKJ6GV-kTgJ6u5-yglkNwOaDMdvKocbBq0kwL7BIHLlLmnf2Lf7Q/s2560/20210705_150434.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="2560" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFyes5ibY1APSkTX-2ZhpBWqIXzqxpNrWChcNcf5yrLjuc45hDejkLMJcu4DtqQv3KU5uMugr2iFmm8fwqfk4Bt8yXIhovaR-V93zFdELnOo3mDPA2JeA8iQaAgW-g4o9nhwO4gbHKJ6GV-kTgJ6u5-yglkNwOaDMdvKocbBq0kwL7BIHLlLmnf2Lf7Q/s320/20210705_150434.jpg" width="320" /></a>I ordered paint from <a href="http://automotivetouchup.com">automotivetouchup.com</a>, including basecoats in Chrysler "Inferno Red" and Ford "Oxford White", along with a quart of two-part urethane clearcoat. I applied these with an HPLV spray gun while wearing the same supplied air <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012D8N4I6?th=1">respirator hood</a> that I had adapted with a mattress inflator and corrugated hose to use when repainting the hood of my car.</p>
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<p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDRElGsKMCtyGzSATIKFq-2_7XnnQp28mA8_iLCvfj9uYCrdrrLnbnuFb7waLOpe6ixJfPwZtvJ1UZsLcMy7UK35wTygj1qUKXCZ9Q9N_NIsjwlDlSiN_TcGhJHM-Mc28hhuxkTksO4CFK6B0T1Jr2_Gm7-5YQqrdteS9l9V2jBK5BBHYnAcDsZ9n5Uw/s2560/20210727_140514.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="2560" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDRElGsKMCtyGzSATIKFq-2_7XnnQp28mA8_iLCvfj9uYCrdrrLnbnuFb7waLOpe6ixJfPwZtvJ1UZsLcMy7UK35wTygj1qUKXCZ9Q9N_NIsjwlDlSiN_TcGhJHM-Mc28hhuxkTksO4CFK6B0T1Jr2_Gm7-5YQqrdteS9l9V2jBK5BBHYnAcDsZ9n5Uw/s320/20210727_140514.jpg" width="320" /></a>Some vinyl lettering cut on my Silhouette Portrait completed the look, because, why not?</p><p>(The 3D printed nylon gas cap with integrated gas gauge was a previous project)</p>
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<p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9yueq5pz8nsHJvR7hAsbl2ukI7jLVwfhZr1tovx4WgtgWvZIkcGMlb2JKyNGdecnDxLw1Vnd86MvMdH7v5IuUZZ-pbJAMcVCab58jCYAvV-rrvA7lOrMgKqzTwp72q3bidehwYcqmKpp4sMCQ_8A6rbbct0w7OUyfynh6ns7mdz7MJOGyAiNOumiTaA/s2560/20210626_182149.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2560" data-original-width="1440" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9yueq5pz8nsHJvR7hAsbl2ukI7jLVwfhZr1tovx4WgtgWvZIkcGMlb2JKyNGdecnDxLw1Vnd86MvMdH7v5IuUZZ-pbJAMcVCab58jCYAvV-rrvA7lOrMgKqzTwp72q3bidehwYcqmKpp4sMCQ_8A6rbbct0w7OUyfynh6ns7mdz7MJOGyAiNOumiTaA/s320/20210626_182149.jpg" width="180" /></a>Another part that needed attention was the speedometer. The original bakelite face had crumbled away decades ago, and my previous attempt at replacing it was okay but I wanted to do better this time. </p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3u55OcXHfb24CgA0N7IcVvawAoAGS51ZQRGeQcmJyuLRJjXVyk_FwpV8DfLRREibHoBGonBwKE7slous1841okazOFhaNDa-Bls27gq2xx0bT1S-GfLBr3CSyeM94QQVTBx8ku0pXLnHt4jRHJN05cgDSxThA4ANUqf9EeIMQ1Q9Rou1IxvASU6wmqg/s2560/20210626_185737.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="2560" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3u55OcXHfb24CgA0N7IcVvawAoAGS51ZQRGeQcmJyuLRJjXVyk_FwpV8DfLRREibHoBGonBwKE7slous1841okazOFhaNDa-Bls27gq2xx0bT1S-GfLBr3CSyeM94QQVTBx8ku0pXLnHt4jRHJN05cgDSxThA4ANUqf9EeIMQ1Q9Rou1IxvASU6wmqg/s320/20210626_185737.jpg" width="320" /></a><br clear="all" />I designed a new face consisting of two pieces I cut and engraved with my laser cutter, then filled-in engraved numbers with paint. I lined the speedometer body with color LED strips to light up the translucent center face from behind.</p><p><br /></p><br clear="all" /><p>The final piece needing restoration was the cast plastic front badge, which was cracked and faded from half a century of age. I decided to try building one from scratch on my laser cutter, engraving it and then back-painting the resulting piece before shaping it on a belt sander and polishing it clear.</p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8KgXQs6XDX1f0rGSDMcZA_upmzbD3xJN-b2gIjg-8ZKZqJ6zoLOPaq7lp7Bi3bIGGWi0E3MWsLXk60XifMJOfxkr34tiaZErG1o0bEPlZ8iegTEezrRvawkNXhBoID6N6vTZtvRj3fXODu7UzsuY_svaRQTsFddds8DrHa9UDV70_iSCcBo4YBKcXxQ/s2560/20210626_122931.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2560" data-original-width="1440" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8KgXQs6XDX1f0rGSDMcZA_upmzbD3xJN-b2gIjg-8ZKZqJ6zoLOPaq7lp7Bi3bIGGWi0E3MWsLXk60XifMJOfxkr34tiaZErG1o0bEPlZ8iegTEezrRvawkNXhBoID6N6vTZtvRj3fXODu7UzsuY_svaRQTsFddds8DrHa9UDV70_iSCcBo4YBKcXxQ/s320/20210626_122931.jpg" width="180" /></a>I cut versions out of 1/4" acrylic, engraving the details on the backside through masking tape, and then painted the backside in layers through the tape.</p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUYCgPkCtHs4JPLEZGC3JHUNnGMYvt7fknAQHIjvMp0f8C_wUkE7YS9SZ6Lf7jguNcf3oF9uBGnCi8hr0s0eLTVD3zcnKTEiMnbNySbXaMP0cR-bnJY9wrsUz57DgmSYH1MLNoUb784J0nxzGzsgkTCl2msYOqVlDZ12qgPy-PsdTBDaEzJ4qoqjRO_Q/s2560/20210624_180646.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="2560" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUYCgPkCtHs4JPLEZGC3JHUNnGMYvt7fknAQHIjvMp0f8C_wUkE7YS9SZ6Lf7jguNcf3oF9uBGnCi8hr0s0eLTVD3zcnKTEiMnbNySbXaMP0cR-bnJY9wrsUz57DgmSYH1MLNoUb784J0nxzGzsgkTCl2msYOqVlDZ12qgPy-PsdTBDaEzJ4qoqjRO_Q/s320/20210624_180646.jpg" width="320" /></a><br clear="all" />It took many failed attempts to get the details just right, and even if I couldn't perfectly mimic the golden color of the original, I'm pretty happy with the results.</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p>The last part of the project doesn't involve restoration at all, but the fabrication of a new piece I always wish existed. Behind the leg shield, there is a bolt hole designed to hold a spare tire carrier. While I didn't have a carrier there, I always wanted some sort of open tray at that location, one where I could place a water bottle, wallet, or small purchases when running errands. Although I haven't done a lot of sheet metal fabrication of this sort, I decided to try making one because, you know, pandemic.</p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgADihlDV5NjEG-4-2yDP41AnIITY8NeKPvbwPbMeXJMGoC-P-y1UGxUoJa6Ze23HGOL4NvZtbvyTeVo9edOG6I1TGJVUM_8CeLMhzvpVce7ybKF4jkhOwU3lRxJ8HIqMHrMtdPZRQobDDHOOM0ujJgxxqqOtwgLsKbBsfFXTANSFqr3l_Hv2SCw6LQpQ/s2560/20210818_193610.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2560" data-original-width="1440" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgADihlDV5NjEG-4-2yDP41AnIITY8NeKPvbwPbMeXJMGoC-P-y1UGxUoJa6Ze23HGOL4NvZtbvyTeVo9edOG6I1TGJVUM_8CeLMhzvpVce7ybKF4jkhOwU3lRxJ8HIqMHrMtdPZRQobDDHOOM0ujJgxxqqOtwgLsKbBsfFXTANSFqr3l_Hv2SCw6LQpQ/s320/20210818_193610.jpg" width="180" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixpFh0GzsHNoFjgtdbDozG_qxF9u2yng5T7OR5X2en7XuSeVKAuUYRSChj2yjj6vyjxqgHZ2p5DHXEA3L26_97Sl59-ed5-cmYoMEYdbD_PpsXhEqUOUeswskJLgUYGRfqy32KgepehGnn8nHCP82IxBwvDcYCfxTeZ-R_4mPMlOvPPKW0blYOa4NXLA/s2560/20210725_214017.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2560" data-original-width="1440" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixpFh0GzsHNoFjgtdbDozG_qxF9u2yng5T7OR5X2en7XuSeVKAuUYRSChj2yjj6vyjxqgHZ2p5DHXEA3L26_97Sl59-ed5-cmYoMEYdbD_PpsXhEqUOUeswskJLgUYGRfqy32KgepehGnn8nHCP82IxBwvDcYCfxTeZ-R_4mPMlOvPPKW0blYOa4NXLA/s320/20210725_214017.jpg" width="180" /></a>Because of the complex curves, I started with a mockup, which I cut out of PVC sheet that I had originally purchased for vacuum forming before I found it too thick for that purpose. </p><p>When I was happy with the fit, I transferred the shapes to heavy sheet metal, which I cut with a benchtop bandsaw that I had fashioned awhile back by mounting an inexpensive portable unit from <a href="http://harborfreight.com" target="_blank">Harbor Freight</a>.</p>
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</p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB81CkoR_3I91b6V4N8cHHjHkNAdpoQjoILZ29vG0_uF2KGMOl1is212bBk-mEeDbP8YCQoKBbFmHuwoEbaOR3Z8LjnScfr5Z73aEPnb00bI6fCZVc0rRowwJJVgwxi8CHTHi1Hc59xvGkalq-dU5mWYQu7kV_OXQ1UKmSZ7z_lAD7QYGTOnPZaVmmdg/s2560/20210820_202702.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="2560" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB81CkoR_3I91b6V4N8cHHjHkNAdpoQjoILZ29vG0_uF2KGMOl1is212bBk-mEeDbP8YCQoKBbFmHuwoEbaOR3Z8LjnScfr5Z73aEPnb00bI6fCZVc0rRowwJJVgwxi8CHTHi1Hc59xvGkalq-dU5mWYQu7kV_OXQ1UKmSZ7z_lAD7QYGTOnPZaVmmdg/s320/20210820_202702.jpg" width="320" /></a>
I bent the unit into shape with a vise and hand tools, and attached it with rivnuts that I had located on the hidden back and bottom surfaces of the unit. </p>
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<p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMum-wfyBszzNaNSHhp35SVCUzjIwJ8Z_D_JOKNWVki1FXH61sRPbCDtzUFCB8OY4rbiNjsjzuuPoPrKFyt3PzpWyNzDYQnczq-EKPSMWs6sQucAoVWchzK8GJpi4Y97A9lJw1uyKgqF48uojotex4U-Y2-E19c2pSQ5mFvimEMYyVG2Brq8s-G3gqAg/s2560/20210904_170258.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="2560" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMum-wfyBszzNaNSHhp35SVCUzjIwJ8Z_D_JOKNWVki1FXH61sRPbCDtzUFCB8OY4rbiNjsjzuuPoPrKFyt3PzpWyNzDYQnczq-EKPSMWs6sQucAoVWchzK8GJpi4Y97A9lJw1uyKgqF48uojotex4U-Y2-E19c2pSQ5mFvimEMYyVG2Brq8s-G3gqAg/s320/20210904_170258.jpg" width="320" /></a>Once again I broke out the spray gun, painting it in matching red and white after a coat of primer.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p> </p>
<br clear="all" /><p>I need to take some photos with better lighting that shows off the paint better, but with some new chrome hubcaps to finish things off, this is the final result. <br /><br clear="all" /> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_d4v_CxRw8q-L8ySIJ9DXy-azpSUW2kTrS0dtzwX8XqE8mjuvWK41q6LXE9jH0I6gF71BSWDqGSGhqB0eRAii78wqpq3PRIg7WfuramLmWJ6abES4NY2WNqVkIrSKoURf6HXBl0k_z1OKohmlxFpKs_x_rZJvH_Sza7CEWvyM1yVNoeXxEomB_gdRoA/s1907/20210912_173429.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1270" data-original-width="1907" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_d4v_CxRw8q-L8ySIJ9DXy-azpSUW2kTrS0dtzwX8XqE8mjuvWK41q6LXE9jH0I6gF71BSWDqGSGhqB0eRAii78wqpq3PRIg7WfuramLmWJ6abES4NY2WNqVkIrSKoURf6HXBl0k_z1OKohmlxFpKs_x_rZJvH_Sza7CEWvyM1yVNoeXxEomB_gdRoA/w640-h426/20210912_173429.jpg" width="640" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Tm563LVjR8lG9SE2xlBlnw1JPSsts9EPswCc_IU7M_iGl6jW33mfohpBJETD6HucxCOApIfLJpwLEoGk7Kgf2Co2cko3gGYoMtjJqAVzElUZ5fLx_3NYyP86BeHU_P24FdcuF72QjHnSNlIx9ETTbxyleHmJBXZgCs9xPW39B80Uv2w-z9t7Y_y8VQ/s2560/20210912_162312.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2560" data-original-width="1440" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Tm563LVjR8lG9SE2xlBlnw1JPSsts9EPswCc_IU7M_iGl6jW33mfohpBJETD6HucxCOApIfLJpwLEoGk7Kgf2Co2cko3gGYoMtjJqAVzElUZ5fLx_3NYyP86BeHU_P24FdcuF72QjHnSNlIx9ETTbxyleHmJBXZgCs9xPW39B80Uv2w-z9t7Y_y8VQ/w360-h640/20210912_162312.jpg" width="360" /></a><br clear="all" /><br /></p>
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<p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />MakerMonkeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05791331445343616307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8206308677692819527.post-78666801075348120862019-11-20T23:21:00.003-08:002019-11-20T23:21:35.375-08:00Building the treehouse (Phase 1)<!-- ------------------------------------------------------------------- -->
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Growing up, who didn't dream of having a treehouse?<br />
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I know I certainly did, but, alas, the spindly fruit trees available to me at the time didn't offer much opportunity for even climbing, much less building. And that was when the term "treehouse" meant little more than a Calvin-and-Hobbes style pallet in a tree.<br />
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So when grandparents moved nearby into the Sierra foothills, I took the opportunity to live out some unfulfilled childhood dreams and build a treehouse for the Little Monkeys. This build took place over about a dozen weekends spread across two summers. I call it "Phase 1" because at this point, it is really just a supersized version of the pallet in a tree, with future plans dependent on how it ends up being used.<br />
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The first step was choosing a site. Luckily, the ideal spot appeared, practically screaming out for a treehouse. It had three large pine trees and one oak configured in a rough 12-foot square. It would be perfect for a 12x16 ft treehouse deck.
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The problem, of course, was how to get up there. I put my gym climbing experience to good use, and assembled a tree climbing harness, ascender, ropes, and other assorted gear. This would let me get up the 10-14 feet height where the treehouse floor would be located. <br />
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All of the initial assembly was done from ropes, using compound pulleys fastened to adjoining trees to raise up the lumber.<br />
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To support the treehouse, the four trees were grouped into two pairs. Each pair would be straddled by two giant 16ft 2x12 pressure treated boards.
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The boards were bolted into the tree with large lag bolts and spacing washers. One end of each board was drilled to accept the lag bolt, while a slot was routed out on the other end to hold a bolt but still allow some relative movement between the trees.<br />
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Initially, I used 3/4" bolts based on a recommendation from a treehouse building book, but later upgraded to 1 1/4" diameter bolts that I found on a treehouse-builder's website. Each one was rated to hold the weight of an RV, an order of magnitude more than I would need<br />
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With the initial boards up, more 2x12's were added on top to connect them and form the basis for a rectangular floor. The deck would be attached to one pair of support boards and alllowed to slide over the other pair to allow free movement of the trees in the other direction.<br />
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I hung 2x6 floor joints between the 2x12 main beams, still harnessed to ropes..<br />
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and framed around the inner trees to complete framing for the deck floor.<br />
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I rough cut deck boards from composite lumber and tacked them down in place. It was at this point that the Little Monkeys could make their first visit to the treehouse under construction. The railings and floors were still incomplete, but they were good to be careful where they stepped, as it was a long way down.<br />
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With the deck boards fastened in place and trimmed, the treehouse was actually starting to look kind of legit.<br />
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Up to this point, climbing up the treehouse required a slightly precarious trip up an aluminum ladder. Fortunately, I had a little help completing some proper stairs out of more 2x12 lumber.<br />
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Not bad so far. A rope railing is yet to come.<br />
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Finally composite railing was added to fully enclose the deck.<br />
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And here is the completed (more or less) product. Future additions may include some sort of shade structure or enclosure, but for now, the trees themselves provide plenty of cover from the sun even during the hot summer months. <br />
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The little monkeys are already eager to start constructing their own furnishings and additions.<br />
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<br />MakerMonkeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05791331445343616307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8206308677692819527.post-40096136096704936842018-07-15T01:14:00.000-07:002018-07-15T01:14:00.286-07:00Front Stairway<table style="width: 100%;"><tbody>
<tr><td valign="top">Like many projects, the front steps started as a conspiracy between an idea, ample enthusiasm, and a general lack of common sense to hold one back. How nice it would be, we thought, to have fancy-ish paved steps leading up the sloped lawn to our front door.<br />
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Not only would this add some appeal to our dreadfully uninteresting forescape, but it would keep those who supply of our neverending cavalcade of Amazon boxes--those that make it all the way to the front door at least--from hopping over the flower beds as they take a shortcut through the lawn and kicking rubber bark onto the sidewalk on their way out.<br />
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Of course there were doubts,... sometimes from me but mostly from other people. That didn't stop the progress, but this was our biggest home project to date. It took a very long time indeed, as interference from life and other inconveniences separated the intermittent pockets of project-ing across roughly 18 months of time.</td><td valign="top"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wsv0x9KvtCc/W0rEJPJn8eI/AAAAAAAAKDo/ks3wz3n2ofgVSdxJw9JC7q1rWQYQUaN2wCLcBGAs/s1600/20180714_191522.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wsv0x9KvtCc/W0rEJPJn8eI/AAAAAAAAKDo/ks3wz3n2ofgVSdxJw9JC7q1rWQYQUaN2wCLcBGAs/s640/20180714_191522.jpg" width="270" /></a></td></tr>
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</td><td><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iPH4fgUCS6E/W0rCWj3IHtI/AAAAAAAAKAw/TqvQQbBmZiUfbJUixWtRs224JM0jTDxsgCLcBGAs/s1600/IMAG1586.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1117" height="260" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iPH4fgUCS6E/W0rCWj3IHtI/AAAAAAAAKAw/TqvQQbBmZiUfbJUixWtRs224JM0jTDxsgCLcBGAs/s320/IMAG1586.jpg" width="178" /></a>
</td><td valign="top">As a first step, I drove some stakes into the ground where I figured steps should go and ran string to help visualize it.<br />
<br />
I shoveled out the sod inbetween the lines with a pickaxe and shovel. Too late to turn back now.</td></tr>
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<table style="width: 100%;"><tbody>
<tr><td valign="top">I continued to chop and dig out the rough steps by hand, loading the clods of clay-filled soil into wheelbarrows and dumping them in the backyard, where I disposed of them later. <br />
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In this photo, I had dug out enough to start to visualize the steps up the roughly 40-inch rise, but I went deeper later to make room for a base rock layer.<br />
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This actually turned out to be one of the most labor intensive and dangerous tasks of the job. The labor was carting off four truck-fulls of wet, heavy, soil to the landscape dump for recycling. The danger was driving my Duran-Duran era truck to get there.</td><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IqnVXbjVJ-0/W0rDK1fDFyI/AAAAAAAAKBs/xqHRs8EoObgcZT_iaC9dlYulltnoQNb_QCLcBGAs/s1600/IMAG1587.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1117" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IqnVXbjVJ-0/W0rDK1fDFyI/AAAAAAAAKBs/xqHRs8EoObgcZT_iaC9dlYulltnoQNb_QCLcBGAs/s400/IMAG1587.jpg" width="277" /></a>
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<tr><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3vQbMgWOhv4/W0rDMqacPPI/AAAAAAAAKBw/tsW5x2L7-mw0h772-FEbHDBtURTYIVQagCLcBGAs/s1600/IMAG1588.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 0em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1117" height="260" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3vQbMgWOhv4/W0rDMqacPPI/AAAAAAAAKBw/tsW5x2L7-mw0h772-FEbHDBtURTYIVQagCLcBGAs/s320/IMAG1588.jpg" width="178" /></a>
</td><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_v8GYPFdvAM/W0rDQqS5P8I/AAAAAAAAKB0/-Ux4sfajA-oFpcXYYQEWM1mAczl9Ga8RACLcBGAs/s1600/IMAG1622.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1117" height="260" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_v8GYPFdvAM/W0rDQqS5P8I/AAAAAAAAKB0/-Ux4sfajA-oFpcXYYQEWM1mAczl9Ga8RACLcBGAs/s320/IMAG1622.jpg" width="178" /></a>
</td><td valign="top">Once enough soil was removed, I made a lumber frame for the steps, and added rock and wire reinforcement.<br />
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Since I was doing this myself, a little flair was in order, so some bent bits were added to give each step a gentle curve, and cables were threaded though the forms for low-voltage lighting.</td></tr>
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<table style="width: 100%;"><tbody>
<tr><td valign="top">Concrete really is the ideal outdoor building material. It's strong, durable, versatile, and costs next to nothing if you have the tools.<br />
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Like anyone else who needs to pour concrete, I borrowed my parent's cement mixer. <br />
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This same mixer makes cameos in memories of my own childhood, so I felt lucky to pass on the experience to my own little monkeys. It also felt nice to have the help, especially when the help came in the form of mocking and general silliness. </td><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OOo5K-rWvlM/W0rDjRXWHKI/AAAAAAAAKCc/Ju3MfKVWTlUlw3dgSm1Kel4JfrRzP3rTACLcBGAs/s1600/IMAG1634.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1117" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OOo5K-rWvlM/W0rDjRXWHKI/AAAAAAAAKCc/Ju3MfKVWTlUlw3dgSm1Kel4JfrRzP3rTACLcBGAs/s320/IMAG1634.jpg" width="223" /></a>
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<tr><td><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eQlXTE4UijE/W0rDcR8KuMI/AAAAAAAAKCQ/Jrc8fNmQi08FfrDFdz5Prb8yLhusZ0vnACLcBGAs/s1600/IMAG1632.jpg" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 0em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1117" height="290" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eQlXTE4UijE/W0rDcR8KuMI/AAAAAAAAKCQ/Jrc8fNmQi08FfrDFdz5Prb8yLhusZ0vnACLcBGAs/s320/IMAG1632.jpg" width="178" /></a>
</td><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Pcipx6N9x2c/W0rDnJG4wWI/AAAAAAAAKCk/2_py63_DW4oWbm_-AZOLXmxJs48b72xhwCLcBGAs/s1600/IMAG1635.jpg" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1117" height="290" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Pcipx6N9x2c/W0rDnJG4wWI/AAAAAAAAKCk/2_py63_DW4oWbm_-AZOLXmxJs48b72xhwCLcBGAs/s320/IMAG1635.jpg" width="178" /></a>
</td><td valign="top">Once the concrete was poured into the forms and cured (in three separate stages)...</td></tr>
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<table style="width: 100%;"><tbody>
<tr><td valign="top">I was able to pull of the forms and get a good approximation of step-like objects.<br />
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At this point, however, I hadn't really figured out what to do to keep the sides from caving once the inevitable rain started to come down. I knew I needed to reinforce it, but I wasn't sure what to use and considered many materials. </td><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZTS_MNV-nsk/W0rDrGnoQ1I/AAAAAAAAKCs/jmjrjwCMffUFRTowEvPfvFydl1s5ebeKACLcBGAs/s1600/IMAG1638.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1117" height="290" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZTS_MNV-nsk/W0rDrGnoQ1I/AAAAAAAAKCs/jmjrjwCMffUFRTowEvPfvFydl1s5ebeKACLcBGAs/s320/IMAG1638.jpg" width="178" /></a>
</td><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qkD8YaIlqeY/W0rDuoXG9dI/AAAAAAAAKCw/XjugotzuoSsWFFlwiQts1QUKLkW4nb87gCLcBGAs/s1600/IMAG1656.jpg" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1117" height="290" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qkD8YaIlqeY/W0rDuoXG9dI/AAAAAAAAKCw/XjugotzuoSsWFFlwiQts1QUKLkW4nb87gCLcBGAs/s320/IMAG1656.jpg" width="178" /></a>
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<tr><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8K8lCBpvhb4/W0rD6URKebI/AAAAAAAAKDE/0dH9SQzuhb0CeTCRzp_R_OaQOR5yya3ugCLcBGAs/s1600/IMAG1672.jpg" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 0em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1117" height="290" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8K8lCBpvhb4/W0rD6URKebI/AAAAAAAAKDE/0dH9SQzuhb0CeTCRzp_R_OaQOR5yya3ugCLcBGAs/s320/IMAG1672.jpg" width="178" /></a>
</td><td><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-18pNexmZZng/W0rEECZXN_I/AAAAAAAAKDY/5-u6QkyG-X8sQ82SII2LgZmFv4AML_IqgCLcBGAs/s1600/IMAG1684.jpg" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1117" height="290" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-18pNexmZZng/W0rEECZXN_I/AAAAAAAAKDY/5-u6QkyG-X8sQ82SII2LgZmFv4AML_IqgCLcBGAs/s320/IMAG1684.jpg" width="178" /></a>
</td><td valign="top">In the end, more concrete, wire mesh, and some rebar won out, so I added some forms and mixed up another batch.<br />
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Non-incidentally, reports of a length of rebar going through a sprinkler line around this time (necessitating some painful digging out and reconstructions) are, of course, fake news.</td></tr>
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<tr><td valign="top">With the forms off, the steps really started looking legit. But bare concrete is kind of ugly, so the idea was to skin it with pavers and their ilk.</td><td><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-obBkN7n8yoQ/W0rC39O7BLI/AAAAAAAAKBE/_X6QjXTGOQsiOdO-NAkbxyjJqLL4LPfPQCLcBGAs/s1600/20170501_191714.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-obBkN7n8yoQ/W0rC39O7BLI/AAAAAAAAKBE/_X6QjXTGOQsiOdO-NAkbxyjJqLL4LPfPQCLcBGAs/s320/20170501_191714.jpg" width="240" /></a>
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<tr><td><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iioDxS8j-dg/W0rC7TOEwoI/AAAAAAAAKBM/PeXhJFq-SsMr0whupT6O0zj58p7U1_MxgCLcBGAs/s1600/20170610_125815.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iioDxS8j-dg/W0rC7TOEwoI/AAAAAAAAKBM/PeXhJFq-SsMr0whupT6O0zj58p7U1_MxgCLcBGAs/s320/20170610_125815.jpg" width="240" /></a>
</td><td valign="top">To minimize waste, I had sized the width of steps to match the repeating pattern in some large irregular-shaped pavers. The front and back curves of each step also matched, so I could layout the pavers in a large slab and cut it like a jigsaw puzzle into separate adjoining pieces with no waste.<br />
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For this, I found a Harbor Freight brick saw invaluable cheap solution... as was my helper.</td></tr>
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<table style="width: 100%;"><tbody>
<tr><td valign="top">I laid out the pavers onto the steps, over sand and rock for the flat bits, and with thinset onto the steps themselves.<br />
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<br /></td><td><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Hpd04MkXMnA/W0rDGCmCiMI/AAAAAAAAKBg/YSgVBLEgVtcvs6j95d7pPEy4vCHFyq7LwCLcBGAs/s1600/20170702_135552.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 0em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="290" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Hpd04MkXMnA/W0rDGCmCiMI/AAAAAAAAKBg/YSgVBLEgVtcvs6j95d7pPEy4vCHFyq7LwCLcBGAs/s320/20170702_135552.jpg" width="178" /></a>
</td><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w60WE63VwAc/W0rC-EpjpOI/AAAAAAAAKBQ/_LzKKWOZpWY37hjh_t0Dyqo_e4O5mV1HgCLcBGAs/s1600/20170618_183743.jpg" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 0em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="290" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w60WE63VwAc/W0rC-EpjpOI/AAAAAAAAKBQ/_LzKKWOZpWY37hjh_t0Dyqo_e4O5mV1HgCLcBGAs/s320/20170618_183743.jpg" width="178" /></a>
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<tr><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UNVh3tbceE4/W0rDDdtlvTI/AAAAAAAAKBY/RjFp0XNtJgk0zL7Lwt33ckr5UACcei5jQCLcBGAs/s1600/20170618_190353.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UNVh3tbceE4/W0rDDdtlvTI/AAAAAAAAKBY/RjFp0XNtJgk0zL7Lwt33ckr5UACcei5jQCLcBGAs/s320/20170618_190353.jpg" width="240" /></a>
</td><td valign="top">For the front edges of each step, charcoal bullnose pavers gave a nice contrast. Each paver was cut down to size and fanned out, with colored mortar lovingly shoved in-between the cracks.<br />
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The cutoffs from each bullnose provided the front face of each step, and also housed a pair of LED lights for each step using the wiring embedded into the concrete beforehand.<br />
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I used polymeric sand to lock the pavers, and then sprayed on a medium gloss sealer.</td></tr>
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<table style="width: 100%;"><tbody>
<tr><td valign="top">To finish off the steps and cover up the remaining raw concrete, dark stacked stone was added to the sidewall faces and wall cap pavers mortared on top.<br />
<br />
I completed these last steps relatively recently after many months off. In the meantime, other projects intervened, including pillars and fencing across the entire front yard. The front gate is visible here, as is a part of the stair landing that extends to the side for access to a mailbox embedded in one of the pillars.</td><td><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nRd_RSpC6oU/W0rEFLojsnI/AAAAAAAAKDc/I8I6TEWsHow05HjbRxfI7lbktVxVFQ4PACLcBGAs/s1600/20180714_131006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nRd_RSpC6oU/W0rEFLojsnI/AAAAAAAAKDc/I8I6TEWsHow05HjbRxfI7lbktVxVFQ4PACLcBGAs/s320/20180714_131006.jpg" width="180" /></a>
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<tr><td><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BTcecjWOmN8/W0rEHDyoALI/AAAAAAAAKDk/efFDXF_nwV89fn412TU3cbW-aEGftCSQQCLcBGAs/s1600/20180714_131134.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 0em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BTcecjWOmN8/W0rEHDyoALI/AAAAAAAAKDk/efFDXF_nwV89fn412TU3cbW-aEGftCSQQCLcBGAs/s320/20180714_131134.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td><br />
And here is the result, with the steps completed.<br />
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Projects still to be done include extending the pavers over the swalkway area above and perhaps the driveway, but that is for another day.</td></tr>
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</td><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sYk3GJwc0B0/W0rEK6TXT0I/AAAAAAAAKDs/UK7n5W9dqQUIRYOgPzeNOe6maITq_pKrACLcBGAs/s1600/20180714_191613.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sYk3GJwc0B0/W0rEK6TXT0I/AAAAAAAAKDs/UK7n5W9dqQUIRYOgPzeNOe6maITq_pKrACLcBGAs/s640/20180714_191613.jpg" width="360" /></a>
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<br />MakerMonkeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05791331445343616307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8206308677692819527.post-24101249694926091922017-09-17T22:42:00.000-07:002017-09-17T22:52:52.799-07:00Restoring the Ride (revisited!)<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jpJV2BXpPJM/Wb8b_oAhG7I/AAAAAAAAG94/LzW5GRIZbmoJVfK2ODv8cWc7SZlBdipQQCLcBGAs/s1600/20170909_150053.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a>
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gQPaoMHTsUo/Wb8gEdbY1xI/AAAAAAAAG_8/4JtUfpAmxuMOnx-zU-TTTHyVv2uv5Mm0QCLcBGAs/s1600/20170729_191817.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gQPaoMHTsUo/Wb8gEdbY1xI/AAAAAAAAG_8/4JtUfpAmxuMOnx-zU-TTTHyVv2uv5Mm0QCLcBGAs/s320/20170729_191817.jpg" width="240" /></a><br />
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For the last few weeks, I've been totally obsessed with a new project, fixing, building, and revising the ghost of some of my past Maker failures at the same time.<br />
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I decided to update my aging <b><i>Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder</i></b>, spiffing it up and reversing some of the ravages of time. It's still a daily driver, so anything I could do to make it better would make my commute more enjoyable.<br />
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-09j77ZxcO_k/Wb8bVZfOTpI/AAAAAAAAG9c/6tpXkNIWNTYN_eJ-ZVTFxnTwQTIsfEpoACLcBGAs/s1600/20170917_171940.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><br /></a>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-09j77ZxcO_k/Wb8bVZfOTpI/AAAAAAAAG9c/6tpXkNIWNTYN_eJ-ZVTFxnTwQTIsfEpoACLcBGAs/s1600/20170917_171940.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-09j77ZxcO_k/Wb8bVZfOTpI/AAAAAAAAG9c/6tpXkNIWNTYN_eJ-ZVTFxnTwQTIsfEpoACLcBGAs/s320/20170917_171940.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This is my car on the day I drove it home <b><i>twenty years ago</i></b>. It has been my constant companion, having followed me through many happy times and countless life changes.</div>
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Yet, the years have resulted in a fair amount of wear and tear -- for both me and the car -- but at least for the car some of that can be undone with a little skill and significantly more effort.</div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-m6Cesfj9ZcQ/Wb8gF2RhFoI/AAAAAAAAHAA/6cKEQE5jsNUWENI-v905QL09IX_JWN7OgCLcBGAs/s1600/20170810_184004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-m6Cesfj9ZcQ/Wb8gF2RhFoI/AAAAAAAAHAA/6cKEQE5jsNUWENI-v905QL09IX_JWN7OgCLcBGAs/s320/20170810_184004.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EbOfOwyCtZk/Wb9TD8ywbII/AAAAAAAAHAY/vdgX9OpR68kQDKOxQJFef1TSKRKu7ekzQCLcBGAs/s1600/20170728_153903.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EbOfOwyCtZk/Wb9TD8ywbII/AAAAAAAAHAY/vdgX9OpR68kQDKOxQJFef1TSKRKu7ekzQCLcBGAs/s200/20170728_153903.jpg" width="200" /></a>I decided to give the Eclipse a full makeover both inside and out. </div>
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For the interior, this included stripping it down and replacing the stanky carpet (top picture), cleaning up and touching up all the plastic surfaces, fixing and covering the upholstery, upgrading the gauges and lighting (LEDs!), and cleanly rewiring the radio and all the accessories into a separate fuse box case I made on the laser cutter because I could.</div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x555EyUennU/Wb8gWD_JciI/AAAAAAAAHAI/wUq2Nt0wWYkODLMpyMW6VzdkO36wmPo7gCLcBGAs/s1600/20170903_150045.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x555EyUennU/Wb8gWD_JciI/AAAAAAAAHAI/wUq2Nt0wWYkODLMpyMW6VzdkO36wmPo7gCLcBGAs/s400/20170903_150045.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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For the engine bay, I got inspired by some online modding communities to do some largely unnecessary upgrades. I cleaned everything up, replaced all the belts, upgraded the hoses with silicone and stainless steel, detailed some items, and upgraded the intake (little more pick-up, nice vroom-vroom sound!) just for fun.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ytjEPvWGnTw/Wb8bVzaOTvI/AAAAAAAAG9k/AZHsDmWFsQoGXjeyqnLepJrnk_Sy4Ns3ACLcBGAs/s1600/20170917_170610.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ytjEPvWGnTw/Wb8bVzaOTvI/AAAAAAAAG9k/AZHsDmWFsQoGXjeyqnLepJrnk_Sy4Ns3ACLcBGAs/s200/20170917_170610.jpg" width="150" /></a><span style="text-align: center;">The toughest challenge, however, was the exterior, specifically the hood and front bumper. They were in poor shape, with cracking and chipping paint, making the Eclipse a 20/20 car -- it looked good only if you watched it going 20 miles per hour from 20 feet away.</span><br />
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<span style="text-align: center;">The most painful part was that it was all my fault, and the latest example of three failed previous hood paint jobs:</span><br />
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Failure #1 (2004) - After touching up some chips, I clearcoated the hood with an underpowered compressor, resulting in a generally acceptable but slightly uneven clearcoat in sections.<br />
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Failure #2 (2008) - To cover up the uneveness, I repainted the hood with custom mixed paint, but decided to save money using inexpensive clearcoat from OReilly's. It looked good at first but developed spider cracks after a few years.<br />
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Failure #3 (2012) - The spider cracks wouldn't make a good surface to paint on, so to avoid stripping the hood, I purchased a new aftermarket "primed" hood I found for sale on Amazon. Since it was already "primed" I assumed I could just scuff it and paint it. I also used extra materials to repaint and clearcoat the front bumper. Neither surface was apparently prepped well enough though as they both started cracking and chipping after a few years.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1m_YZ2Grsys/Wb8b8k1EObI/AAAAAAAAG90/PBUZch-DCcAyHHsTygofIS4RG4FexDRuQCLcBGAs/s1600/20170908_130147.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1N8c1GXTHm8/Wb8cA02ocuI/AAAAAAAAG-A/un8szJWVAWcEs4sm5ewZ2JkpzgXMqotKwCLcBGAs/s1600/20170909_150038.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1N8c1GXTHm8/Wb8cA02ocuI/AAAAAAAAG-A/un8szJWVAWcEs4sm5ewZ2JkpzgXMqotKwCLcBGAs/s320/20170909_150038.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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So this is where I began try #4.</div>
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Since I still had the original factory hood around, I decide to strip it down and start from scratch, doing everything possible to help the paint stick. This was a painful process that involved paint stripper and a lot of scraping and sanding with a dual-action sander (thanks Harbor Freight!). Once all the old cracked clearcoat was gone, I wet-sanded it smooth.</div>
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The bumper got a similar treatment with sanding off of all ugly bits and really scuffing up the rest before wet sanding to smoothing it back out for primer and paint.</div>
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Ignore the hood in this pic. It's actually the bad one and while it kind of looks OK in this picture, it looked horrible from any other angle.<br />
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With that done, both parts were ready for paint. Time to put on my Breaking Bad costume. Safety first.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jpJV2BXpPJM/Wb8b_oAhG7I/AAAAAAAAG94/LzW5GRIZbmoJVfK2ODv8cWc7SZlBdipQQCLcBGAs/s1600/20170909_150053.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: start;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jpJV2BXpPJM/Wb8b_oAhG7I/AAAAAAAAG94/LzW5GRIZbmoJVfK2ODv8cWc7SZlBdipQQCLcBGAs/s200/20170909_150053.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">First, I primed both parts using a two-part primer that you mixed together before spraying. It was expensive, so surely it must be good and give maximum stickiness. I used a $10 spray gun, also from Harbor Freight.</span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2Gps9F2ti2g/Wb8cDsQZ1hI/AAAAAAAAG-E/-_HSx0icLUwrnt-ep4O9jmk2lnguSCLaQCLcBGAs/s1600/20170909_153655.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2Gps9F2ti2g/Wb8cDsQZ1hI/AAAAAAAAG-E/-_HSx0icLUwrnt-ep4O9jmk2lnguSCLaQCLcBGAs/s320/20170909_153655.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-foiuMf0ahKg/Wb8cFavBjoI/AAAAAAAAG-I/-YaDCSqR6BENW46ZLOsQU6Dc-S2U9i08ACLcBGAs/s1600/20170909_153701.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-foiuMf0ahKg/Wb8cFavBjoI/AAAAAAAAG-I/-YaDCSqR6BENW46ZLOsQU6Dc-S2U9i08ACLcBGAs/s320/20170909_153701.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Then came the color coat. Looks better already, just not shiny.</div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9G9IyOymV38/Wb8cJ7gc9QI/AAAAAAAAG-U/_mC6V79sQpApxOfWyMOUjHrOIw-Safh0wCLcBGAs/s1600/20170909_182722.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9G9IyOymV38/Wb8cJ7gc9QI/AAAAAAAAG-U/_mC6V79sQpApxOfWyMOUjHrOIw-Safh0wCLcBGAs/s320/20170909_182722.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now the all important clearcoat. This time I used a pricey urethane clearcoat that, like the primer, comes in two parts that you mix together, which starts a countdown clock for you to apply it before it hardens by chemical reaction. It's supposed to yield a super hard clearcoat, which I needed because I don't want to do this again...again.</div>
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Fingers are crossed.</div>
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Incidentally, I purchased all the paint materials together at <a href="http://automotivetouchup.com/">automotivetouchup.com</a> </div>
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It was getting dark by the time I did the bumper. Even the dark can't hide that shine though!.</div>
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The next day, everything was looking promising, but the hood had picked up some bubbles and specs of stuff while it dried. I really should have sprayed it propped up. Oh well. Good to know for the fifth time. <br />
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There better not be a fifth time..</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KnvPzcr8QbQ/Wb8cRRpyu2I/AAAAAAAAG-o/_GGpS77GQxs9HFvfpjrVMaUJl_vtyMCdwCLcBGAs/s1600/20170910_231211.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KnvPzcr8QbQ/Wb8cRRpyu2I/AAAAAAAAG-o/_GGpS77GQxs9HFvfpjrVMaUJl_vtyMCdwCLcBGAs/s320/20170910_231211.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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To smooth it out I ended up doing a WHOLE LOT of wet-sanding with successive grades of sandpaper (1000, 1500, 2500, 3000), then buffing with rubbing compound and polish. The good news is that this got rid of any orange-peel like bumpiness in the paint at the same time.</div>
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This was a PITA. I knew I needed to wet sand enough with each grit for the buffing to work, but was constantly afraid of accidentally sanding through to the color coat. That would have force me to repaint everything again. In the end, I had to go back a few times over the course of two afternoons of messing with it to re-sand everything before the hood would polish up well.</div>
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This is the result, with the hood swapped back onto the car. Not too shabby, if I say so myself (though still waiting on a new logo badge)</div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2a6fyrof_sA/Wb8cdeVsvxI/AAAAAAAAG_0/w-NAGQVW6EUOpOwVh4LDNSKaV7XkDZ4NQCEwYBhgL/s1600/20170916_175148.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2a6fyrof_sA/Wb8cdeVsvxI/AAAAAAAAG_0/w-NAGQVW6EUOpOwVh4LDNSKaV7XkDZ4NQCEwYBhgL/s640/20170916_175148.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uAPv_LoUDKg/Wb8cpzidw9I/AAAAAAAAG_0/1jU-dsccovccALbrRREFIAbIOhINYwuAACEwYBhgL/s1600/20170916_180254.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uAPv_LoUDKg/Wb8cpzidw9I/AAAAAAAAG_0/1jU-dsccovccALbrRREFIAbIOhINYwuAACEwYBhgL/s320/20170916_180254.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Now no longer a 20/20 car.<br />
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Maybe even a 5/5 car now.<br />
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<br />MakerMonkeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05791331445343616307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8206308677692819527.post-2981826439767951342016-09-14T22:39:00.000-07:002016-09-14T22:39:35.461-07:00DIY Faux Ceiling Beams and Laser Cutter Exhaust<br />
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pCJAahn37Tk/V9eFCjXObTI/AAAAAAAAFbc/_V-LG4RiPt8Bss_q5WKbJHYrOoBMj_nKACLcB/s1600/IMAG1400.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="278" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pCJAahn37Tk/V9eFCjXObTI/AAAAAAAAFbc/_V-LG4RiPt8Bss_q5WKbJHYrOoBMj_nKACLcB/s400/IMAG1400.jpg" width="400" /></a>Ever since I finished constructing the Monkey Cave, I've thought about adding ceiling beams to complete the look.<br />
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Not only could they help even out the difference in height due to the
drop ceiling for the garage door, but they could give the Cave some interest and rustic appeal, kind of like Tuscany, minus Diane Lane and plus 3D printing and laser cutting.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HIZfYCtyNag/V9eIuP_rxrI/AAAAAAAAFcI/RyIRz-vhjHk6x7PK0B2lPgfhWN6zecSwQCLcB/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2016-09-12%2Bat%2B10.03.21%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="181" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HIZfYCtyNag/V9eIuP_rxrI/AAAAAAAAFcI/RyIRz-vhjHk6x7PK0B2lPgfhWN6zecSwQCLcB/s320/Screen%2BShot%2B2016-09-12%2Bat%2B10.03.21%2BPM.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Exposed ceiling beams, though, aren't really native to construction in this part of the country. Instead, I found that most beams are really "faux" versions made of lightweight foam. Light on weight doesn't mean light on the pocketbook, however as I'd have to spend over $500 to get them shipped, which seemed too much to me to pay for a little Tuscanification.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-V5dBUvRLm3E/V9eKdRnKl5I/AAAAAAAAFcQ/bp0ejG3bIFgd4kYwQfDxm7y15AVxwdgbwCLcB/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2016-09-12%2Bat%2B10.10.48%2BPM.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-V5dBUvRLm3E/V9eKdRnKl5I/AAAAAAAAFcQ/bp0ejG3bIFgd4kYwQfDxm7y15AVxwdgbwCLcB/s320/Screen%2BShot%2B2016-09-12%2Bat%2B10.10.48%2BPM.png" width="320" /></a>I also considered making "Box" beams from separate planks nailed together. While hollow, they would still be quite heavy compared to foam beams. More importantly, they wouldn't look solid, as it would be very difficult to hide the seams and finish the planks well enough to provide the illusion of the one piece beams I wanted.<br />
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Because no solution seemed ideal, for a long time I shelved the idea entirely of adding ceiling beams at all.<br />
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Recently, though, the opportunity to revisit ceiling beams came when pondering upgrades to my laser cutting setup. Up to now, I used a flexible hose to route the fumes out a vent opening in a nearby exterior wall. But because the hose crossed a walkway and was inconvenient to connect and disconnect, I wanted a more permanent solution. I came up with the wacky idea of ducting the fumes across the ceiling instead, perhaps hidden within a faux ceiling beam.<br />
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Once again, I looked into foam beams, but found that their walls were simply too thick. To get a big enough opening inside to provide adequate airflow, I'd need at least a 7x7 beam, which would be both too big and even more expensive than before.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mmIRhBVXXJY/V9jcRca_OGI/AAAAAAAAFc4/JlkGSyrb9wIZgEcmW9_lIxf0E9fwqDnvgCLcB/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2016-09-13%2Bat%2B10.11.03%2BPM.png" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mmIRhBVXXJY/V9jcRca_OGI/AAAAAAAAFc4/JlkGSyrb9wIZgEcmW9_lIxf0E9fwqDnvgCLcB/s320/Screen%2BShot%2B2016-09-13%2Bat%2B10.11.03%2BPM.png" width="320" /></a><br />
Brainstorming for other materials to use, I came across a solution I'd never seen used before: PVC fence posts. They're light, hollow, come in wood grain finishes, and Home Depot had some "end posts" for sale at a really good price. They could work perfectly if I could tape up the side openings, connect some of together to extend their length, and perhaps add a faux finish on top to make them look more like stained wood.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NjX7hRnZJXU/V9eEfvBTtbI/AAAAAAAAFaE/pw6DGQnyniEGewMo-nn1XzKZ5JyhXk8egCLcB/s1600/IMAG1374.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NjX7hRnZJXU/V9eEfvBTtbI/AAAAAAAAFaE/pw6DGQnyniEGewMo-nn1XzKZ5JyhXk8egCLcB/s320/IMAG1374.jpg" width="223" /></a><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xXX8VrZ1yDk/V9eEbwKXB1I/AAAAAAAAFZ8/7BFP3A-hPF4lgafNeuqL2apQk0QyvZNCQCLcB/s1600/IMAG1373.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xXX8VrZ1yDk/V9eEbwKXB1I/AAAAAAAAFZ8/7BFP3A-hPF4lgafNeuqL2apQk0QyvZNCQCLcB/s320/IMAG1373.jpg" width="223" /></a>To reach the ceiling, I also needed to add a vertical section. For this I used some oval galvanized ducting. I added pop-riveted sheet metal to close the ends and outlets at the top and bottom.<br />
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I mounted the assembled unit in a corner where there was an offset in the wall, allowing me to cover it up later by extending the front-most section.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7w_hta0TU0M/V9eEgJCobrI/AAAAAAAAFaI/WpQb6uxyVRosvdKaOfNLNmW052h1HYbJgCLcB/s1600/IMAG1375.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7w_hta0TU0M/V9eEgJCobrI/AAAAAAAAFaI/WpQb6uxyVRosvdKaOfNLNmW052h1HYbJgCLcB/s400/IMAG1375.jpg" width="278" /></a> To pull air through the duct, I mounted a 12V bilge fan into a short length of post, laser cutting an acrylic plate to seal the fan in place.<br />
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The fan would be mounted at the end of the ducting run just inside the vent opening in the wall. The wiring to power it would run inside the ducting to the laser cutter.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mYfgfswwNd4/V9eEpvV0WVI/AAAAAAAAFaY/gE88cxSUlqUmhHkDL-TGEMgF4Obpd0i3ACLcB/s1600/IMAG1380.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mYfgfswwNd4/V9eEpvV0WVI/AAAAAAAAFaY/gE88cxSUlqUmhHkDL-TGEMgF4Obpd0i3ACLcB/s320/IMAG1380.jpg" width="223" /></a><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5cI6ysPqTEs/V9eE4iWuATI/AAAAAAAAFbA/UnVtYGVhHYsm7HPNsFyQA7ftH38aeogHwCLcB/s1600/IMAG1393.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5cI6ysPqTEs/V9eE4iWuATI/AAAAAAAAFbA/UnVtYGVhHYsm7HPNsFyQA7ftH38aeogHwCLcB/s320/IMAG1393.jpg" width="223" /></a>To finish off the beams, I cut up the edge of a chip brush to make it ragged and used it to dry-brush two coats of mahogany gel stain onto post segments.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-a-Pm3mmWVW0/V9eEnMVGNCI/AAAAAAAAFaU/KsLLmWGuj0srmPD-j77monTksG4DJCglwCLcB/s1600/IMAG1378.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-a-Pm3mmWVW0/V9eEnMVGNCI/AAAAAAAAFaU/KsLLmWGuj0srmPD-j77monTksG4DJCglwCLcB/s400/IMAG1378.jpg" width="278" /></a>Despite being fairly loose and random with the paint brush, I was pleasantly surprised by the final effect. Even with minimal effort, it looked very convincing even close up.
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The vent opening in the wall was located a few inches below the ceiling. To match it, the ceiling beam duct couldn't be mounted directly to the top. Instead, I decided to use short standoff blocks--fastened to the ceiling with toggle bolts and wrapped with short sections of post--to hold the beams at the proper location. Besides adding the needed spacing, the standoffs also provided a way to hide the joins between separate sections of pipe.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oR4f9qi-lBc/V9eEspJoJeI/AAAAAAAAFag/CM9FbGlPnc8RovTNua6a8Kuowbnaar6OQCLcB/s1600/IMAG1383.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="220" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oR4f9qi-lBc/V9eEspJoJeI/AAAAAAAAFag/CM9FbGlPnc8RovTNua6a8Kuowbnaar6OQCLcB/s320/IMAG1383.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d-oJHLZwCjI/V9eErHd4nFI/AAAAAAAAFac/gSFMoHFieRsKcK_SpKtPpZNiyEV5Xqd4wCLcB/s1600/IMAG1382.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d-oJHLZwCjI/V9eErHd4nFI/AAAAAAAAFac/gSFMoHFieRsKcK_SpKtPpZNiyEV5Xqd4wCLcB/s320/IMAG1382.jpg" width="222" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d-oJHLZwCjI/V9eErHd4nFI/AAAAAAAAFac/gSFMoHFieRsKcK_SpKtPpZNiyEV5Xqd4wCLcB/s1600/IMAG1382.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><br />
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Designed specifically for faux ceiling beams, Home Depot sells rubber strips made to resemble distressed bronze straps with rivet heads. Wrapped around the posts at the standoffs, they hide the seams while also providing the perfect accent detail.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IijKyNggXRk/V9eEzDLRA3I/AAAAAAAAFaw/21PfcVDRtis2eb1UB-euxo17pgHUB7f5ACLcB/s1600/IMAG1388.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IijKyNggXRk/V9eEzDLRA3I/AAAAAAAAFaw/21PfcVDRtis2eb1UB-euxo17pgHUB7f5ACLcB/s320/IMAG1388.jpg" width="223" /></a>
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aA5bekdLWLQ/V9eEuJDdPzI/AAAAAAAAFak/5uxD-DlsuLwgJHER2qRoKMuKgzxYfTaIQCLcB/s1600/IMAG1385.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aA5bekdLWLQ/V9eEuJDdPzI/AAAAAAAAFak/5uxD-DlsuLwgJHER2qRoKMuKgzxYfTaIQCLcB/s320/IMAG1385.jpg" width="223" /></a>
I added framing around the vertical duct, covered it with drywall, and then taped and buttered the seams.
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-32NDUHzRE8Y/V9eE7ZXb5sI/AAAAAAAAFbI/O89xsewi1-0ptqG8ZohH3qp91wlCxw__ACLcB/s1600/IMAG1395.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-32NDUHzRE8Y/V9eE7ZXb5sI/AAAAAAAAFbI/O89xsewi1-0ptqG8ZohH3qp91wlCxw__ACLcB/s320/IMAG1395.jpg" width="223" /></a>
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GrXpHUIjaVw/V9eE3BpIfiI/AAAAAAAAFa8/URTGZXwMUGQqXR6mhTCCehCsjqGotznCwCLcB/s1600/IMAG1392.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GrXpHUIjaVw/V9eE3BpIfiI/AAAAAAAAFa8/URTGZXwMUGQqXR6mhTCCehCsjqGotznCwCLcB/s320/IMAG1392.jpg" width="223" /></a>
I sprayed it with a texture gun and let it dry. When painted, it nicely matched the adjoining wall.
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Finally, I added two non-functional beams to complete the installation. Here is the completed project. <br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RbUa7PHAWxg/V9eFWcL9r4I/AAAAAAAAFcA/J-DY9KzG8OI7egHUxm5WJP-tNwV6kefJACLcB/s1600/IMAG1409.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RbUa7PHAWxg/V9eFWcL9r4I/AAAAAAAAFcA/J-DY9KzG8OI7egHUxm5WJP-tNwV6kefJACLcB/s640/IMAG1409.jpg" width="580" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8yD1GerCAfE/V9eFMDHl3VI/AAAAAAAAFbs/DG_qNWd6V_01K1Shu1SPhDYiDCahrpqawCLcB/s1600/IMAG1404.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="278" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8yD1GerCAfE/V9eFMDHl3VI/AAAAAAAAFbs/DG_qNWd6V_01K1Shu1SPhDYiDCahrpqawCLcB/s400/IMAG1404.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-926yAwM9plk/V9eFU6Q4xUI/AAAAAAAAFb8/G7bLb5qVQigVp1sfnBGFDPWCZn2xx4hrQCLcB/s1600/IMAG1408.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-926yAwM9plk/V9eFU6Q4xUI/AAAAAAAAFb8/G7bLb5qVQigVp1sfnBGFDPWCZn2xx4hrQCLcB/s400/IMAG1408.jpg" width="278" /></a></div>
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MakerMonkeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05791331445343616307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8206308677692819527.post-40267957690864145492016-04-03T12:34:00.002-07:002016-04-12T20:38:44.019-07:00Hacking the K40 Laser Cutter<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-budo8qMyjT0/VwDF3Als-vI/AAAAAAAAEak/-Jc3LNj5fkMOPK7bUxNyY7AWCgKNG09QQ/s1600/IMAG1125.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-budo8qMyjT0/VwDF3Als-vI/AAAAAAAAEak/-Jc3LNj5fkMOPK7bUxNyY7AWCgKNG09QQ/s400/IMAG1125.jpg" width="400" /></a>Bargain Chinese laser cutter/engravers typically come with funky proprietary controller hardware and software. While more-or-less functional, the software tends to be buggy, and limits future support availability and upgrade options.<br />
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This post details my experience converting my K40 Laser Cutter to use open source controller hardware.<br />
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I chose an <a href="http://reprap.org/wiki/AZSMZ_Mini" target="_blank">AZSMZ Mini</a> to use for the new controller. A variant of the <a href="http://smoothieware.org/smoothieboard" target="_blank">Smoothieboard</a>, the Mini is a compact unit whose built-in features make it very easy-to-use for this application. <br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kxi5Nly6koU/VwDFwPkVQdI/AAAAAAAAEac/Wd3Jb6van4Iyz59xpD8lmcQ0GAyNL7-Ag/s1600/IMAG0790.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kxi5Nly6koU/VwDFwPkVQdI/AAAAAAAAEac/Wd3Jb6van4Iyz59xpD8lmcQ0GAyNL7-Ag/s320/IMAG0790.jpg" width="181" /></a><br />
I bought an AZSMZ Mini with stepper drivers and LCD display for $80 on eBay. As my stock control panel was stark and minimalist, I only had to rearrange some of its controls to make space for the new LCD display.<br />
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The first step was to build a support for the Mini and LCD board to mount beneath the control panel. I cut a bracket out of clear acrylic sheet and attached the controller and LCD to it with nylon standoffs. In front of this, I mounted a new control panel that I cut out of two-color plastic sign-making laminated sheet. Fortunately, a laser cutter is the perfect tool for doing this kind of work!</div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0LlwfMTNeXQ/VwCzlc47F6I/AAAAAAAAEZI/WlueAbj98IcZFes3K--6yLm-ROkT5cvYg/s1600/IMAG1063.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0LlwfMTNeXQ/VwCzlc47F6I/AAAAAAAAEZI/WlueAbj98IcZFes3K--6yLm-ROkT5cvYg/s320/IMAG1063.jpg" width="180" /></a><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GlGAFGe_2b8/VwC0fWrAu1I/AAAAAAAAEZY/YC6-AHeGoBsWV0vVOAyVASd1kq6yxKupQ/s1600/IMAG1067.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qIow-arOPf8/VwCzm74_xyI/AAAAAAAAEZM/tlIxzUFFjIEXFrbix8udXDuXtBQ6yULhw/s1600/IMAG1064.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qIow-arOPf8/VwCzm74_xyI/AAAAAAAAEZM/tlIxzUFFjIEXFrbix8udXDuXtBQ6yULhw/s320/IMAG1064.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GlGAFGe_2b8/VwC0fWrAu1I/AAAAAAAAEZY/YC6-AHeGoBsWV0vVOAyVASd1kq6yxKupQ/s1600/IMAG1067.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GlGAFGe_2b8/VwC0fWrAu1I/AAAAAAAAEZY/YC6-AHeGoBsWV0vVOAyVASd1kq6yxKupQ/s320/IMAG1067.jpg" width="180" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4OBQOVWpx_c/VwC0aEvlpYI/AAAAAAAAEZU/wOR9ahqg_7gcumPYRVKTlsIiRLruGTsMg/s1600/IMAG1074.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4OBQOVWpx_c/VwC0aEvlpYI/AAAAAAAAEZU/wOR9ahqg_7gcumPYRVKTlsIiRLruGTsMg/s320/IMAG1074.jpg" width="180" /></a><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qIow-arOPf8/VwCzm74_xyI/AAAAAAAAEZM/tlIxzUFFjIEXFrbix8udXDuXtBQ6yULhw/s1600/IMAG1064.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a> <br />
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With the new control panel mounted in place, the next step was to hook up the controller board to the laser cutter power supply and motion control hardware.</div>
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Most others who have done similar upgrades have simply thrown out the old controller (in my case a Moshiboard) and painfully wired up the replacement directly to the existing power supply, stepper motors, and endstops, either directly splicing cables or using a <a href="https://weistekengineering.com/?p=2556" target="_blank">Middleman</a> board to aid in the process.</div>
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I, however, decided to take a different approach. Instead of tossing all
the old hardware entirely, I'd make my own adapter board that would allow me to
switch back and forth between the old and new. This would give me the
flexibility to use the best software for a particular job, as well as
options in case of an incompatibility or breakdown occurred in one specific software/hardware combination.</div>
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While power supplies tend to come in many variations, Moshiboard
controllers do not. By designing an adapter board to replicate the
Moshiboard connectors, I could simplify the wiring and reuse the existing
cabling as well. While some laser cutters have separate cables for endstops and the X stepper motor, mine combines them in a single flat flexible ribbon cable, so I made an adapter for this configuration.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-n_gTfU3r46A/VwC2EmGmXWI/AAAAAAAAEZw/PWunGFakTbUfqMDuLrDIfAZUkgKjt3xDQ/s1600/IMAG1119.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-n_gTfU3r46A/VwC2EmGmXWI/AAAAAAAAEZw/PWunGFakTbUfqMDuLrDIfAZUkgKjt3xDQ/s320/IMAG1119.jpg" width="180" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DZyhnwCU5mM/VwC1bXBwa6I/AAAAAAAAEZg/zcqhPKIK1C8EVoZ9walP0ymJF3iuEVwGw/s1600/IMAG1120.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DZyhnwCU5mM/VwC1bXBwa6I/AAAAAAAAEZg/zcqhPKIK1C8EVoZ9walP0ymJF3iuEVwGw/s320/IMAG1120.jpg" width="180" /></a>I was surprised to find out how cheap custom circuit boards are to produce if one is willing to wait a month for shipping from the Far East.<br />
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I downloaded and learned a free design program called <a href="http://www.freepcb.com/" target="_blank">FreePCB</a> and used it to layout <a href="http://www.tealpoint.com/_vince/k40/cam.zip" target="_blank">my custom adapter board</a>. It uses standard connectors and three <a href="http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/cts-electrocomponents/206-125/206-125-ND/5223469" target="_blank">CTS 206-125 dip switches</a> to choose which controller to enable. The idea is to switch all dip switches to one direction (with the power off!) to select which controller board to use.<br />
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I had 10 boards manufactured at <a href="http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/" target="_blank">SeeedStudio</a> for a total of 20 bucks.<br />
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Wiring up everything was super easy. The connectors on my adapter board line up in position and orientation with the ones on the Moshiboard, and are attached with short jumper cables. The only exception is one of the two FFC ribbon cable sockets (the one that connects to the Moshiboard), which I designed to be rotated 180-degrees around so that it could be connected with a very short FFC bent neatly back over itself into a U shape, as pictured below.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cabling Diagram</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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The AZSMZ Mini has a built-in voltage regulator, so a single 24V power connection powers both the stepper motors and electronics. A single wire connects each of the X and Y endstops, and the stepper motors connect with simple 4-wire jumper cables. The fire line on cutter is active low, so a feature of the Mini simplifies its connection. The board comes with Mosfets that switch to ground for heater and fan connection, so I simply wired the fire line to the D8 bed heater terminal which is controlled by the PWM1 line.<br />
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With the hookup complete, the only thing needed to be done is
configuration.<br />
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Smoothieboards support easy configuration via a config.txt file that is loaded at boot time from a MicroSD inserted in the main board.<br />
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Here is a copy of <a href="http://www.tealpoint.com/_vince/k40/config.txt" target="_blank">my configuration</a>. I had to make adjustments from the defaults to calibrate my motor movement and direction, as well as lower the acceleration and fire PCM rates to get the behavior I wanted.<br />
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And here it is the result; all connected up and ready to go. I've made a few test cuts so far, and all is looking good!<br />
<br />MakerMonkeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05791331445343616307noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8206308677692819527.post-61300520288470997522016-01-17T01:46:00.000-08:002016-01-17T10:02:21.340-08:00DIY Filament Factory<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Winder box with Filastruder on top</td></tr>
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As a frequent 3D printer user, I sometimes go through a spool of filament... well... faster than a redneck goes through second cousins at a family reunion. While the price of filament has dropped significantly in recent years, raw plastic pellets can still be bought for less than one-third the cost.<br />
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To take advantage of this, a number of solutions exist for making one's own filament, including the <a href="http://filastruder.com/" target="_blank">Filastruder</a>, a kit I received a prior Christmas. Cleverly designed from largely ordinary hardware, the device extrudes filament by squeezing plastic pellets with an auger bit down a heated length pipe and out a small nozzle.<br />
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I'd always had mixed results using the Filastruder, however, as reliable use requires suspending it in the air over a large open space. Otherwise, that the fragile molten filament can catch on furniture or itself, causing the resulting product to kink, snag, and be otherwise unusable. This made it a real hassle to use, especially since even a slight air movement from opening a door or walking by could disturb the filament. With little Monkeys about, this was not a realistically achievable scenario.<br />
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For a more convenient system, I decided to try making a simple filament winder that could take up the filament as it is produced, keeping it neat and consistent. While a commercial winder kit exists, I could justify neither the cost nor large wall hanging space it requires when set-up. Instead, I chose to make one of my own design; one that didn't require the same finicky electronics. It would also be a challenge which added to the fun. Lastly, I came up with the idea of building it into a handy portable case that could house both itself and the Filastruder, keeping them free of dust and out of the way when not in use.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IeUYQU26TLY/VptGgl9QscI/AAAAAAAAEL8/CmoqttwrVYI/s1600/IMAG1018.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IeUYQU26TLY/VptGgl9QscI/AAAAAAAAEL8/CmoqttwrVYI/s320/IMAG1018.jpg" /></a>I created a frame for a simple plywood box, roughly 20 inches square and 6 inches thick. I stained it and added a leather handle and some brass hardware, fancying that this gave it the appearance of some bizarre 19th century science experiment or instrument of medical quackery.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4N6hy41MdsI/VptGcUX4n8I/AAAAAAAAELc/Y0qLR_G9XrA/s1600/IMAG1013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4N6hy41MdsI/VptGcUX4n8I/AAAAAAAAELc/Y0qLR_G9XrA/s400/IMAG1013.jpg" width="225" /></a>The toughest part of the design was finding a way to sense slack in the filament without disturbing the path of the filament itself. As the new filament comes out molten, I found that even the lightest micro-switch I could find would transmit too much force back up the filament and cause a kink near the nozzle opening. <br />
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Other winders use linear sensors, but they require a microprocessor and more complexity, which I hoped to avoid. After trying mercury switches and considering magnetic reed switches and other sensors,<br />
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I settled on a lightweight 3D-printed "see-saw" rocker that I weighted down slightly on one side. The filament moves in a loop down the left side of the box, across the bottom, and up the right side. When the filament develops too much slack, the bottom of the loop pushes down on a curved acetate surface glued to one side of the rocker. This lifts up the other side, raising a shutter that exposes a CDS-cell light detector to a single LED light source.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yMFmhvjCSCw/VptGlcvXlUI/AAAAAAAAEMs/WDf3LwpD5Mw/s1600/IMAG1027.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yMFmhvjCSCw/VptGlcvXlUI/AAAAAAAAEMs/WDf3LwpD5Mw/s320/IMAG1027.jpg" /></a>The cell is connected to a solid state relay that drives a small gear motor and the take-up spool. I also added a cheap $5 PWM motor speed control board to allow fine-tuning of the motor speed.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dF6oqy18rRU/VptGfXEVG7I/AAAAAAAAEL0/QrWCAATpO8E/s1600/IMAG1016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dF6oqy18rRU/VptGfXEVG7I/AAAAAAAAEL0/QrWCAATpO8E/s320/IMAG1016.jpg" /></a></div>
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To evenly guide the filament onto the spool, the filament passes through a short length of tubing mounted onto a hinge. As the hinge moves, the filament comes out at a different place on the reel, keeping it from bunching up in one place.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HrhF344jRho/VptGcVVwjdI/AAAAAAAAELg/rDFPZdpr8Y0/s1600/IMAG1015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HrhF344jRho/VptGcVVwjdI/AAAAAAAAELg/rDFPZdpr8Y0/s320/IMAG1015.jpg" /></a>The hinge, in turn, is linked to a carriage, that moves up and down along a worm gear (threaded rod) driven by a second gear motor. Two momentary limit switches keep the carriage from moving too far in either direction. They simply switch on and off a DPDT latching relay, wired in a way (one on, one off) so that the motor reverses direction when either switch is hit.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4N37huEjCQk/VptGcXfb1RI/AAAAAAAAELk/q-2aFLH1xGw/s1600/IMAG1014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4N37huEjCQk/VptGcXfb1RI/AAAAAAAAELk/q-2aFLH1xGw/s320/IMAG1014.jpg" /></a>After my initial tests, I also added a small, spring loaded clamp to keep the filament under tension. This was needed to keep the filament tight on the reel.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-krpWZ04ZIyw/VptGh89akyI/AAAAAAAAEMM/x9a4Pp0TIwc/s1600/IMAG1023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-krpWZ04ZIyw/VptGh89akyI/AAAAAAAAEMM/x9a4Pp0TIwc/s400/IMAG1023.jpg" width="225" /></a>Here is the completed winder case. When in storage, the Filastruder fits neatly inside with hanging space for an empty or full filament spool.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JEs3xnXLxz0/VptGjs_hvwI/AAAAAAAAEMY/HvwYYrHrsVk/s1600/IMAG1025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JEs3xnXLxz0/VptGjs_hvwI/AAAAAAAAEMY/HvwYYrHrsVk/s400/IMAG1025.jpg" width="225" /></a>When I'm ready use it, I simply set the extruder on top of the case and pass the new filament down through a hole in the top and loop it round to the winder inside.<br />
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I was surprised how well it worked right off the bat. The rocker assembly tends to stay right on the edge between on and off, moving ever so slightly to periodically activate the take-up motor. The movements are so small that the filament path moves very little, leading to the most consistent filament than I've ever made before.<br />
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I've already successfully used it to create two one-pound (half-size) spools. I'll still probably buy some filament, particularly for special colors and specialty plastics. When I need simple black or white filament, however (the colors I use the most), from now on I'll probably just make my own.<br />
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<br />MakerMonkeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05791331445343616307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8206308677692819527.post-81792540752980062232015-12-22T17:52:00.000-08:002015-12-22T17:52:50.625-08:00Backyard Climbing Wall<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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What Little Monkey doesn't want to climb?</div>
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When ours have more energy than can be safely confined within four walls, we always find it essential to have a selection of outdoor distractions. After two trips to a local climbing gym, we decided that our own climbing wall would make a great new addition.<br />
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Fortunately, we had previously
built a large play structure that was ensconced in a cushy layer of rubber bark. One of its walls would be perfect for erecting a modest 10-foot
wall for climbing and bouldering.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I2Jm93iY5A0/VnnOYQj_RII/AAAAAAAAEB8/G1-uOpAXmu4/s1600/IMAG0871.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I2Jm93iY5A0/VnnOYQj_RII/AAAAAAAAEB8/G1-uOpAXmu4/s320/IMAG0871.jpg" /></a><br />
The first step was to assemble the materials. Since the wall would be outside, this meant choosing materials that could weather the... well...weather.<br />
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I bought some pressure treated 2x4 beams from which to construct a
frame, and two sheets of 3/4 pressure treated plywood to be used for the
wall face. The sheets needed to be prepped with deck wash prior to covering. Fortunately, my helpers thought this was a fun task to do.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jKimPMcH7R4/VnnOaBtcpBI/AAAAAAAAECs/hfOVoQIEfeQ/s1600/IMAG0879.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a> </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8ErvHz-5J44/VnnOYtc2MuI/AAAAAAAAECI/nsY8OdLVUGc/s1600/IMAG0873.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8ErvHz-5J44/VnnOYtc2MuI/AAAAAAAAECI/nsY8OdLVUGc/s320/IMAG0873.jpg" /></a>To anchor the holds, I created a template in scrap wood, and the Little
Monkeys and I used it to mark out and drill mounting holes in the plywood, laying
them out in a modified 8-inch grid pattern with every other row staggered sideways by
half a column width.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jKimPMcH7R4/VnnOaBtcpBI/AAAAAAAAECs/hfOVoQIEfeQ/s1600/IMAG0879.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jKimPMcH7R4/VnnOaBtcpBI/AAAAAAAAECs/hfOVoQIEfeQ/s320/IMAG0879.jpg" /></a>To give it a nice grippy rock-like appearance, I bought a gallon of
DeckOver textured deck coating in a dark gray color. Since this stuff is
normally used to repair damaged decks, I figured it would be perfect to
both protect the wall and give it the durable surface for climbing. The
stuff is really neat and unbelievably thick. It fills in cracks and crevices (enhancing the "rock" feel), and goes on more like drywall compound than ordinary paint.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8ErvHz-5J44/VnnOYtc2MuI/AAAAAAAAECI/nsY8OdLVUGc/s1600/IMAG0873.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jKimPMcH7R4/VnnOaBtcpBI/AAAAAAAAECs/hfOVoQIEfeQ/s1600/IMAG0879.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
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<a href="http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41UJC6D2IIL.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="200 Heavy Duty 4 Prong Zinc Plated 3/8&quot; T-nuts (For 8' x 8' wall)" border="0" class="a-dynamic-image a-stretch-horizontal" data-a-dynamic-image="{"http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41UJC6D2IIL._SX425_.jpg":[425,285],"http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41UJC6D2IIL.jpg":[500,335],"http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41UJC6D2IIL._SX355_.jpg":[355,238],"http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41UJC6D2IIL._SX466_.jpg":[466,312],"http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41UJC6D2IIL._SX450_.jpg":[450,302]}" data-old-hires="" src="http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41UJC6D2IIL.jpg" height="133" id="landingImage" style="max-height: 335px; max-width: 441px;" width="200" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ysmz1oETEW0/VnnOaZBLrpI/AAAAAAAAECk/M4O9CmE021g/s1600/IMAG0880.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ysmz1oETEW0/VnnOaZBLrpI/AAAAAAAAECk/M4O9CmE021g/s320/IMAG0880.jpg" /></a>Into the holes, we hammered in stainless steel T-nuts from the backside of the wall. These would be used later to fasten holds to the wall with 2-inch stainless hex bolts.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d7a4JKJRsxE/VnnOYSg-7LI/AAAAAAAAEB0/548X2zGdh8Y/s1600/IMAG0815.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d7a4JKJRsxE/VnnOYSg-7LI/AAAAAAAAEB0/548X2zGdh8Y/s200/IMAG0815.jpg" width="113" /></a>Genuine climbing holds are easy to find on eBay. I found a colorful assortment of 40 beginner-level "bolt-on" holds that fit the bill for about $70. After mounting them to the wall, we were ready for some test climbing.</div>
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The Little Monkeys took to the wall right away... maybe a tad too quickly...</div>
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Part of the reason for making the wall was to give the Little Monkeys a
place to get used to their climbing harnesses and practice repelling down after a climb. So to make a top rope V
anchor, I used 3/8" chain, bolts, wall hangars and locking carabiners,
all in stainless steel. <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7j9ozm0gxL0/Vnn3Ylaji7I/AAAAAAAAEGM/ntX95u5fVWE/s1600/IMAG0975.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7j9ozm0gxL0/Vnn3Ylaji7I/AAAAAAAAEGM/ntX95u5fVWE/s640/IMAG0975.jpg" width="362" /></a><br />
With that in place, they had their choice of bouldering and top rope climbing, and the wall was done.<br />
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MakerMonkeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05791331445343616307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8206308677692819527.post-57022901213766372592015-11-22T00:05:00.001-08:002015-11-22T00:45:00.424-08:00Steamer Trunk Coffee Table (with Stealth Cutting Laser)What beats a plain coffee table? A coffee table made from a steamer trunk. What beats coffee table made from a steamer trunk? A coffee table made from a steamer trunk that hides a liquid-cooled cutting laser inside, of course.
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In brainstorming ideas for a permanent laser cutter home, I got stuck on the idea of building it into a table.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Steamer trunk with a hidden surprise</td></tr>
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I looked online for ideas and really liked the look and hidden storage of "steamer trunk" coffee tables.
The laser cutter was already quite large, however, so I wanted the trunk that didn't have a lot of extra wasted space. None of the existing tables I found came even remotely close, though, so my only option (fortunately) was to construct one from scratch.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cutting angle iron</td></tr>
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Most steamer trunk coffee tables I found were built to resemble a classic steamer trunk resting on some sort of stand, perhaps with shelving below for magazines and such.
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I decided to make mine out of plywood and steel and give it a distressed industrial look. I bought about 50 pounds of angle iron from <a href="http://www.homedepot.com/s/angle%2520iron?NCNI-5">Big Orange</a> to make the frame. To cut the steel to length and miter the ends, I used a portable bandsaw from <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/10-amp-deep-cut-variable-speed-band-saw-kit-62800.html">Harbor Freight</a> that I'd mounted on a small stand.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Welding</td></tr>
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Sadly, my existing welding skills were pretty sucky, so the next step would be tricky. The project required a lot of welding, so I'd have to step my game up to get it done. Fortunately, it also offered ample opportunity to practice. At the beginning, my welds were a brittle, lumpy mess. After a couple of false starts and more redos than I would have liked, I finally figured out that by carefully cleaning the metal beforehand and keeping the wand close to the surface, I could get a reasonably clean bead.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Full welded frame</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Welded base</td></tr>
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With that knowledge in hand, I welded together the table frame, creating both the trunk and a base unit that would hold a rack for sheet materials and the water supply.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Painting</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Adding straps</td></tr>
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After the frame was fully assembled, I sprayed it with rust-colored red primer followed by an oil rubbed bronze paint. When it dried, I lightly sanded the edges to give it a faux weathered appearance.
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To complete a steamer trunk look, the frame included steel simulated "leather" straps, which I sprayed a contrasting copper color.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Caster wheels</td></tr>
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To give the table mobility, I found some nice cast iron caster wheels on <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Shepherd-Hardware-9174-2-Inch-Capacity/dp/B000H5QGYW/">Amazon</a>, and painted them the same copper color as the straps.
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I didn't want the hard wheels to scratch the floor of my Man Cave, however, so I printed polyurethane rubber treads for them on my 3D printer using <a href="www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSEWKSQ/">Ninjaflex</a> flexible filament.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Corner hardware</td></tr>
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From the <a href="www.rockler.com/search/go?w=steamer trunk hardware">Rocker woodworking store</a>, I got some very nice streamer trunk hardware to make everything truly authentic, including corners, latches, and hinges.
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They really sell the illusion. A light dusting in copper paint helped them blend in.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Staining wood</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Distressing plywood</td></tr>
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For side panels, I used hardwood plywood, and recuited Little Monkey and Littler Monkey to distress them before staining. Their eyes lit up when I gave them hammers and told them they could let loose with them.
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I attached the paneling to the frame with button head cap screws to mimic the look of rivets. The hinges, handle, and corner hardware were fastened the same way. With the addition of some wire shelving on the bottom, and some access holes in the bottom, the table was complete, ready for its new occupant.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hinging top to base</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Installing laser cutter</td></tr>
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I modified the laser cutter internally to route exhaust fumes to the bottom of the unit instead of the back, and also added some switched outlets so the fan and water pump could be enabled from the main control panel.
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I inserted the laser cutter carefully, routing each water hose and power line through its corresponding hole in the trunk button. It was an incredibly close fit, with less than 1/4" clearance all around. In fact, I had to order a special right angle power plug to replace the one that came with the unit, and even had to shave that to make it fit.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cutting name plate</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished nameplate</td></tr>
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As a final touch, I used the laser cutter itself engrave a nameplate for its home.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Completed table with Engraver</td></tr>
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With the trunk top open, the laser is ready for action in all its blazing glory.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Assembled table</td></tr>
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But with the top closed afterwards, all one sees is a handsome piece of furniture with nobody the wiser.
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MakerMonkeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05791331445343616307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8206308677692819527.post-38173623437009379852015-11-08T11:29:00.000-08:002015-11-09T10:04:59.037-08:00Frickin' Laser Beams3D printers are awesome! I love <a href="http://makermonkey.blogspot.com/2013/02/3d-printing-frankenlamp-and-worlds.html" target="_blank">using mine</a> to repair widgets and toys, and make whatever random objects come to mind. However, I've sometimes come to find the technology limiting. First, it's not really great at making finished goods. Also, the build materials are primarily constrained to a few types of plastic. Finally -- and perhaps most importantly -- it could really use the added sexy appeal of a destructive <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=voSpOrimkMY" target="_blank">frickin' laser beam</a>.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Frickin' Laser Beam</td></tr>
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<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hackerspace" target="_blank">Makerspaces </a>are often equipped with laser cutters (aka laser engravers), providing an excellent compliment to 3D printers. Capable of cutting or engraving shapes and images into wood and plastic, and even etch images into glass, the results look completely professional, as they use the same process (if not the same machines) as commercial manufacturers.</div>
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For a hobbyist, I've always assumed that astronomical prices would keep the purchase of a laser cutter permanently unaffordable, or at least spousally indefensible. In the last few years, however, a number of low cost Chinese laser cutters have come onto the market. Instead of $3500-$15,000 or more, these bargain units have literally decimated the entry-level cost barriers to the technology. And while the software can be awful and the hardware relatively crude when compared to their larger brethren, these laser cutters can be surprisingly functional and excellent platforms for hacking, modding, and upgrading.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unboxing my K40</td></tr>
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The king of these low cost laser cutters is the K40, a generic name for a family of similar devices assembled from different Chinese manufacturers using the same or similar parts. <br />
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I discovered them while investigating sub-$200 mini engravers -- compact devices built around the laser diodes used in DVD burner drives -- units capable only of slowly burning patterns into small wood objects such as keychains and cell phone cases. In doing my research, I was surprised to find out that for only a little more money, I could purchase a full size unit built around a real laser. Instead of a laser diode, a K40 uses a water-cooled 40-watt CO2 laser tube, and is capable of not only engraving, but cutting through 1/8" thick acrylic, cardboard or plywood.</div>
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Direct from China, one can get a bare-bones K40 on Alibaba for as little as $300, but I chose to pay <a href="http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=40W+CO2+Laser+Engraving+Machine" target="_blank">only slightly more on eBay</a> to get one from a US-based distributor. It arrived a few weeks later, packed in an abundance of foam and cardboard. It was larger than I expected, but I found it a temporary resting place on some ottomans in the Monkey Man Cave. I'd work later to build it a unique permanent home, which I'll detail in a future post.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2s94xr3U-eE/VkDgCaC9efI/AAAAAAAADxo/szaeiubgQEA/s1600/IMAG0935.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2s94xr3U-eE/VkDgCaC9efI/AAAAAAAADxo/szaeiubgQEA/s200/IMAG0935.jpg" width="113" /></a>The laser cutter came with a submersible aquarium pump to circulate the cooling water and a moderately janky exhaust hose and squirrel fan to remove the gases and smoke generated when engraving. In a few minutes I was able to get up and running, placing the pump in a vat of distilled water and routing the exhaust hose out the door. All I needed to do was fix a poorly-designed ground connection (paint doesn't conduct electricity folks!) and <a href="http://dck40.blogspot.com/2013/02/post-by-nycon-how-to-adjust-mirrors-for.html" target="_blank">adjust the mirrors</a> to get a properly aimed and focused beam.<br />
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I was half expecting to see a satisfying lightsaber-like beam, but sadly, a CO2 laser only produces invisible infrared light. It does have the capability of blinding its operator without advance warning, however, so I was sure to order a pair of CO2 rated <a href="http://www.amazon.com/LASER-SAFETY-EYEWEAR-EXCIMER-WRAP-AROUND/dp/B000HJMS5E/" target="_blank">laser glasses</a> to wear when working with the cover open.<br />
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The weakest component in the system is the software. The laser cutter only works with MoshiDraw, a
program that runs under Windows and functions both as a driver and structured drawing program. It's buggy and confusingly organized, and the English translation is absolutely atrocious. However, the program is quite functional once you figure it out, and is capable of completing a wide range of projects.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nT7bxtSAWI0/Vj7l3qEQrVI/AAAAAAAADwY/gwDaGUJ5d40/s1600/moshidraw.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="219" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nT7bxtSAWI0/Vj7l3qEQrVI/AAAAAAAADwY/gwDaGUJ5d40/s320/moshidraw.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">MoshiDraw</td></tr>
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As a warm-up exercise, I first tried making some test cuts in paper, essentially using the engraver as an oversized, overpowered <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cricut" target="_blank">Cricut</a>, those computerized die cutting machines used by scrapbookers to make paper hearts and doilies and such... except of course with the added satisfying (and may I add manly) power of a death ray laser beam.<br />
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To follow up, I tried my luck with plastic. Using two-tone copper/black laminated <a href="https://www.inventables.com/categories/materials/acrylic">acrylic sheet</a>, I cut and engraved a replacement for the laser cutter's own control panel, which I had enhanced with a few extra switches and knobs.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GjKdu9bQdrE/Vj7bPsCsxpI/AAAAAAAADkU/czYTRoX3joU/s1600/IMAG0794.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 0em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GjKdu9bQdrE/Vj7bPsCsxpI/AAAAAAAADkU/czYTRoX3joU/s320/IMAG0794.jpg" width="171" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Cutting acrylic laminate</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xpbSkd3rP38/Vj7bP-YJkqI/AAAAAAAADkY/IqQlbVCmUU4/s1600/IMAG0795.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 0em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xpbSkd3rP38/Vj7bP-YJkqI/AAAAAAAADkY/IqQlbVCmUU4/s320/IMAG0795.jpg" width="171" /></a>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Completed panel</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Installed panel</td></tr>
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I used a similar material to make bookmarks engraved with a MakerMonkey logo I drew in Photoshop.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mbiHBDeRqoA/Vj7f453LTnI/AAAAAAAADs8/PnZcXBs2fCk/s1600/IMAG0893.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mbiHBDeRqoA/Vj7f453LTnI/AAAAAAAADs8/PnZcXBs2fCk/s320/IMAG0893.jpg" width="181" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HICyEbzGMKU/Vj7f4xKwsDI/AAAAAAAADtA/zOupiTvFXXY/s1600/IMAG0894.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HICyEbzGMKU/Vj7f4xKwsDI/AAAAAAAADtA/zOupiTvFXXY/s320/IMAG0894.jpg" width="181" /></a></div>
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Lastly, I tried the laser cutter on plywood, scorching the same logo into the surface, making this custom engraved coaster.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-udQ7vtD_jjk/Vj7g8ZXQJOI/AAAAAAAADuw/42bjbkX3IqA/s1600/IMAG0915.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-udQ7vtD_jjk/Vj7g8ZXQJOI/AAAAAAAADuw/42bjbkX3IqA/s320/IMAG0915.jpg" width="181" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Laser Cutting Plywood<br />
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</td><td rowspan="2"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LFwbCe4Gy9o/Vj-EOON3zcI/AAAAAAAADxM/VayhZ8cKuH8/s1600/IMAG0918%2B%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LFwbCe4Gy9o/Vj-EOON3zcI/AAAAAAAADxM/VayhZ8cKuH8/s640/IMAG0918%2B%25281%2529.jpg" width="361" /></a>
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<tr><td>The possibilities are endless for future things to make, but the laser cutter couldn't stay in the middle of the room forever.
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First, it needed a permanent home, and of course something ordinary just wouldn't do.<br />
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MakerMonkeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05791331445343616307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8206308677692819527.post-6049063076397678622015-05-10T09:02:00.003-07:002015-05-10T09:23:44.667-07:00The Pizza Oven<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MNER24UE1d8/VU8IWONOOZI/AAAAAAAADFA/Z9W8dbTUuBY/s1600/IMAG0617.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a> </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Littler Monkey in the Oven</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">It all started last summer</span> after reading an article in the June/July an issue of <a href="http://makezine.com/projects/make-39/wood-fired-barrel-oven/" target="_blank">Make Magazine</a>. The story described the construction of a DIY outdoor barrel oven made from bricks, welded steel parts, and a 55-gallon drum. Able to bake bread, pizza, and other goodies from a wood burning file, such an oven seemed perfect for outdoor gatherings (keeping them outside!), and quickly made our short list for planned backyard additions.<br />
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This type of oven, known in Argentina as an "Horno Chileno", or Chilean Oven, is popular there for several advantages over traditional earthen ovens. Because typical clay or brick ovens work primarily off stored heat, they require 1-2 hours of firing to bring them up to temperature and require periodic re-firing between sessions to bring them up to temperature. <br />
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Chilean Ovens, on the other hand, are "mixed-mode" devices that use a metal drum to create an isolated cooking chamber. Since they operate over an open fire, they are much more efficient for occasional use, are ready to cook continuously in as little as 20 minutes, and can safely use scrap wood, paper, or even yard clippings for fuel.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Building the base</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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About six weeks ago, I was ready to start building, and created a base out of concrete block and brick. Bricklaying is a messy process (at least it is for a novice like me), but it was fun and easy to do. The most painful part is just obtaining the bricks in the first place. I used about 320 tan concrete bricks, which I hauled in numbeous repeated trips from two local OSH stores.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Building the firebox</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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For additional heat resistance in areas directly next to the fire, I
used heat-resistant firebrick. Firebrick is much more expensive (and brittle) than clay or concrete brick, so I only used it where necessary, lining the firebox mortaring it together
with refractory (heat resistant) cement.<br />
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For the bottom of the firebox, my trusty assistant Little Monkey and I welded together a fire grate from rebar and angle iron. This would support the burning wood.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YXkHoZy-c_I/VU8IITtafrI/AAAAAAAADCc/YMYa0DrnmDo/s1600/IMAG0586.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YXkHoZy-c_I/VU8IITtafrI/AAAAAAAADCc/YMYa0DrnmDo/s320/IMAG0586.jpg" width="181" /></a>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Welding fire grate</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TGUipgAroBY/VU8IJwkaQLI/AAAAAAAADCw/4Hu6V1MnXBM/s1600/IMAG0588.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TGUipgAroBY/VU8IJwkaQLI/AAAAAAAADCw/4Hu6V1MnXBM/s320/IMAG0588.jpg" width="181" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fire grate installed</td></tr>
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Little did I know that with the partially built brick structure and all the mortar that needed cleaning up that we were also creating the World's Coolest construction toy playhouse.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-d3Hhn-7P7zM/VU8ISSIKDSI/AAAAAAAADEY/V3GyCVNgdP8/s1600/IMAG0610.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="181" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-d3Hhn-7P7zM/VU8ISSIKDSI/AAAAAAAADEY/V3GyCVNgdP8/s320/IMAG0610.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Construction worker on the job</td></tr>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-d3Hhn-7P7zM/VU8ISSIKDSI/AAAAAAAADEY/V3GyCVNgdP8/s1600/IMAG0610.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a>For the cooking vessel, I scoured Craigslist andgot a $30 55-gallon drum that stored cooking oil in a former life. I took it to an auto shop to sandblast the insides clean of paint, as food with paint fumes didn't sound very yummy.<br />
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To support the baked goods, I found two large industrial oven racks on eBay that I could bend to fit. Each rack provided a generous 33" x 19" of cooking space, and fit almost perfectly inside, though I had to weld an extra inch of length to the barrel top to give them enough space. I secured them with stainless steel bolts and nuts. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_lgzxvuM1AM/VU8IMP7qdYI/AAAAAAAADDE/eXIcLlGu-Y4/s1600/IMAG0597.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_lgzxvuM1AM/VU8IMP7qdYI/AAAAAAAADDE/eXIcLlGu-Y4/s320/IMAG0597.jpg" width="181" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oven racks</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-noyHKy0OPgo/VU8IP6HdTAI/AAAAAAAADD0/3bDaS7jbh8w/s1600/IMAG0606.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-noyHKy0OPgo/VU8IP6HdTAI/AAAAAAAADD0/3bDaS7jbh8w/s320/IMAG0606.jpg" width="181" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aka toy storage</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MNER24UE1d8/VU8IWONOOZI/AAAAAAAADFA/Z9W8dbTUuBY/s1600/IMAG0617.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MNER24UE1d8/VU8IWONOOZI/AAAAAAAADFA/Z9W8dbTUuBY/s320/IMAG0617.jpg" width="181" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Building the vaulted top</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Now the tricky part. For the vaulted arch, I mortared brick into the rounded shape using a framework of 2x4 cribbing supported by the barrel. These temporary supports--when removed--would form an air gap where heated exhaust gases can warm the barrel on their way out to the exhaust chimney on top.<br />
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My new good friend Amazon Prime provided the parts for the chimney, including a 6" galvanized pipe, fire safe exhaust cap, and cast iron damper. <br />
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While the magazine article provided good general guidance, it lacked specific instructions in many areas, especially in the regards to the metalwork. Fortunately, the absence of exact requirements left ample room for blissful improvisation and it's evil companion Online Shopping. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UqXUKySLilw/VU8IMl84I0I/AAAAAAAADDM/ixMg3C-4RD4/s1600/IMAG0598.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UqXUKySLilw/VU8IMl84I0I/AAAAAAAADDM/ixMg3C-4RD4/s320/IMAG0598.jpg" width="181" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ready to use drum lid</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ybVuxkOvmVA/VU8IeAcyQRI/AAAAAAAADGM/zVnmmDX74iQ/s1600/IMAG0636.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ybVuxkOvmVA/VU8IeAcyQRI/AAAAAAAADGM/zVnmmDX74iQ/s320/IMAG0636.jpg" width="181" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Insulating oven door</td></tr>
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The oven front was biggest metal part requiring fabrication. The design required a heavy hinged door with a rest stop mounted to a form-fitting ring attached to open end of the barrel.<br />
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Surprisingly, I found an amazing shortcut in the<a href="http://www.amazon.com/Bustin-Waste-Container-Druhttp://www.amazon.com/Bustin-Waste-Container-Drum-Coverm-Cover/dp/B00BJ2E5Y0/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1431236495&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=bustin+trash+lid" target="_blank"> Bustin Waste Drum Cover</a>. Complete with a naturally heat-resistant powdercoat finish, it almost exactly matched the carefully constructed metalwork in the article. All I needed to do to complete it was to paint it black, add a spring grip to the handle, and insulate the inside with ceramic batting and an inner wall I fashioned from the old drum lid.<br />
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For the fire door, I found a ready-made fireplace cleanout door,
fashioning a simple locking handle of of bar steel to complete it.
Similarly, for the cleanout, I used an existing metal air register
as an air grille, adding a tray formed from galvanized sheetmetal as an ash
drawer. Both looked better than anything I could fashion from scratch myself. Thanks again Amazon Prime!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f0eCJD0hw2M/VU8Ids_ViXI/AAAAAAAADGI/6Cz8wv26sg4/s1600/IMAG0635.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f0eCJD0hw2M/VU8Ids_ViXI/AAAAAAAADGI/6Cz8wv26sg4/s320/IMAG0635.jpg" width="181" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fire door</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qBSnU3qVzFw/VU8IcclEfGI/AAAAAAAADF4/FI2USNnhjEk/s1600/IMAG0633.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qBSnU3qVzFw/VU8IcclEfGI/AAAAAAAADF4/FI2USNnhjEk/s320/IMAG0633.jpg" width="181" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ash drawer </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QtZDb2vbNJE/VU8IlMxzrGI/AAAAAAAADHc/u9qnIb7xv0k/s1600/IMAG0649.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QtZDb2vbNJE/VU8IlMxzrGI/AAAAAAAADHc/u9qnIb7xv0k/s320/IMAG0649.jpg" width="181" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Door thermometer</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--lFmet2SWq0/VU8IiYvJlhI/AAAAAAAADHA/L6724zu9QSY/s1600/IMAG0642.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--lFmet2SWq0/VU8IiYvJlhI/AAAAAAAADHA/L6724zu9QSY/s320/IMAG0642.jpg" width="181" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside heat sink</td></tr>
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For finishing touches, I added a thermometer to the door and, after a
test firing, added large heat sinks to the inner and outer bottom surface of
the drum with the thought of increasing heat conduction performance and air circulation.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Here is the completed oven. Once put together, IMHO it looks fairly legit. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_Y2uFdczClQ/VU8Ig2L74kI/AAAAAAAADGs/12-5lU7JfW0/s1600/IMAG0640.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_Y2uFdczClQ/VU8Ig2L74kI/AAAAAAAADGs/12-5lU7JfW0/s640/IMAG0640.jpg" width="362" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All hail Smoko, the Chilean</td></tr>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hK7YTxKwWyk/VU8IffppgpI/AAAAAAAADGc/8_dddLJytQk/s1600/IMAG0638.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RoXbCh619CA/VU8IkQzU8NI/AAAAAAAADHU/AaCfVi_Z61c/s1600/IMAG0648.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>
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It's taken a couple of firings work out some initial bugs. For instance, initially I didn't leave enough expansion space around the barrel front and this caused a little expansion cracking when brought fully up to temperature. Wood fires are also very sooty, and I had go back and seal the fire door and barrel surround with silicone to better contain the smoke. Lastly, while I kept the original chimney height short for aesthetics, getting smoke blown in our faces was fairly fun-free, necessitating extending its height a little bit. <br />
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We've also learned a few tricks, such as first building a good fire and waiting for it burn down to hot coals before cooking. That's when we've seen the oven reach its hottest temperatures, around 600 degrees F, perfect for crispy pizza. We've also heard that hardwood burns much cleaner and longer than softwoods, so we're looking forward to trying that.<br />
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We're still learning how to best take advantage our new Chilean friend, but are sure it will continue to be a hit for many summers to come. <br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RoXbCh619CA/VU8IkQzU8NI/AAAAAAAADHU/AaCfVi_Z61c/s1600/IMAG0648.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RoXbCh619CA/VU8IkQzU8NI/AAAAAAAADHU/AaCfVi_Z61c/s400/IMAG0648.jpg" width="226" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hK7YTxKwWyk/VU8IffppgpI/AAAAAAAADGc/8_dddLJytQk/s1600/IMAG0638.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ugpteEtjssk/VU8Ii2W5mbI/AAAAAAAADHI/sGRcoNCTxfY/s1600/IMAG0645.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="181" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ugpteEtjssk/VU8Ii2W5mbI/AAAAAAAADHI/sGRcoNCTxfY/s320/IMAG0645.jpg" width="320" /></a> <br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hK7YTxKwWyk/VU8IffppgpI/AAAAAAAADGc/8_dddLJytQk/s1600/IMAG0638.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="181" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hK7YTxKwWyk/VU8IffppgpI/AAAAAAAADGc/8_dddLJytQk/s320/IMAG0638.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ugpteEtjssk/VU8Ii2W5mbI/AAAAAAAADHI/sGRcoNCTxfY/s1600/IMAG0645.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a>MakerMonkeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05791331445343616307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8206308677692819527.post-91306236994601711142015-02-07T14:56:00.002-08:002015-02-07T14:56:10.534-08:00Fun with DIY Unlicensed Medical Devices<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-u7_mzAM30u0/VNaI7CLU3fI/AAAAAAAACtA/joVGAF8q-bg/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2015-01-29%2Bat%2B8.38.28%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-u7_mzAM30u0/VNaI7CLU3fI/AAAAAAAACtA/joVGAF8q-bg/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2015-01-29%2Bat%2B8.38.28%2BPM.png" height="200" width="162" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">FDA, AMA meet DIY</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
I'm not a doctor.</h3>
Nor do I play one on TV. But who needs medical credentials when there is good making to be done!<br />
<br />
Recently, I had the opportunity to build something different--a quick project that was simple but rewarding.<br />
<br />
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A few months ago a good friend mangled her arm in ATV rollover. After several surgeries, her parts are back together (more or less), but her recovery entails daily hours of physical therapy to regain flexibility and strength. The official routine is done with simple weights and manual devices, is repetitive and monotonous, and requires constant focus to maintain proper form and pressure.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nX4HdkAHvoo/VNaIVT_hjcI/AAAAAAAACsg/e30DB0ljkVU/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2015-02-07%2Bat%2B1.48.23%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nX4HdkAHvoo/VNaIVT_hjcI/AAAAAAAACsg/e30DB0ljkVU/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2015-02-07%2Bat%2B1.48.23%2BPM.png" height="317" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As far as I know, being shirtless conjoined twins is not a requirement for the therapy shown.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I decided to I might be able to help with a particular exercise, one to extend the wrist range of motion in rotation. My first thought was that there ought to be plenty of commercial mechanical devices on the market to help automate the process. I looked, but except for a few vague references to mostly description-free items that could be purchased overseas in bulk, they didn't exist... yet.<br />
<br />
It could be useful, I thought, to use an electric motor to perform the rotation, as it could rotate back and forth, performing a perfectly repeatable motion with a user-adjustable torque limit in each direction.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5oUXk-xeRlw/VNaIdYeQEYI/AAAAAAAACso/BdTZ3gv1ufY/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2015-02-07%2Bat%2B1.43.14%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5oUXk-xeRlw/VNaIdYeQEYI/AAAAAAAACso/BdTZ3gv1ufY/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2015-02-07%2Bat%2B1.43.14%2BPM.png" height="227" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The "Wondermotor"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The first order of business was to find a suitable motor. By lifting a one-gallon jug of water at the end of a 1-foot stick, we estimated that we needed up to 8 foot pounds of torque (since one gallon weighs 8.3 lbs). That's pretty tall order for a low-voltage motor, but I found exactly one readily-available candidate--a 12-Volt <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Wondermotor-Reversible-Electric-Gear-Motor/dp/B00LTM3AT6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1423287023&sr=8-1&keywords=wondermotor" target="_blank">Wondermotor</a> ($69) on Amazon--that fit the bill.<br />
<br />
It has a built-in worm drive to slow the motion and some impressive specs, and I'll have to remember this one when it's time to build powered go carts for the little Monkeys.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2TODn5WE7z8/VNaIiCZjzmI/AAAAAAAACsw/Lt9hH6I3_fc/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2015-02-07%2Bat%2B1.42.42%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2TODn5WE7z8/VNaIiCZjzmI/AAAAAAAACsw/Lt9hH6I3_fc/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2015-02-07%2Bat%2B1.42.42%2BPM.png" height="320" width="310" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It used to be that you had to make stuff like this yourself</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
For power control, I got a small PWM motor speed <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Controller-Knob--high-Efficiency-Generating-Protection/dp/B00OZJT0U8" target="_blank">control board</a> ($10), also from Amazon, along with some switches, connectors, and miscellaneous parts. Some pipe from the hardware store, and a cheap <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html" target="_blank">angle finder</a> gauge from Harbor Freight completed the parts list.<br />
<br />
<br />
I mounted all the components on some scrap lumber, elevating the motor tied to a block of wood with a pipe support strap. I built a handle out of a bicycle grip, a galvanized pipe nipple, and PVC pipe fittings, and mounted it to the motor through an oval hole drilled in the pipe nipple.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-11_c8qAWYiI/VNaJCfRYCVI/AAAAAAAACtI/mxVQEn2O_h0/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2015-01-29%2Bat%2B8.39.29%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-11_c8qAWYiI/VNaJCfRYCVI/AAAAAAAACtI/mxVQEn2O_h0/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2015-01-29%2Bat%2B8.39.29%2BPM.png" height="243" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">For some reason this reminds me of that Simpsons episode where Homer bulks up just one arm and uses it to hustle folks arm wrestling.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
To power the motor, I used a spare 12-Volt wall wart wired as input to the motor speed control. I wired the output of the control to the motor, passing through a two-way momentary DPDT toggle switch to allow the motor to <a href="http://www.robotroom.com/DPDT-Bidirectional-Motor-Switch.html" target="_blank">change directions.</a><br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwwoxr_6baQc0US90k5kSwU5NT27J_yU8R6YjbW3PXSsW0sC3M1c-bb53wRo_PS-QEGvxfpBhsERud1tuDO' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
The idea was to have motor stall when the user's wrist reached its end of motion, suddenly increasing the load. By adjusting the power/speed control, one can get the unit to exert the same force for every rotation.<br />
<br />
Here is a video of the device in operation during initial trial tests... <br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sw1wo0y2-TQ/VNaIxtx9M8I/AAAAAAAACs4/-rdvEa1T3aM/s1600/IMAG0557.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sw1wo0y2-TQ/VNaIxtx9M8I/AAAAAAAACs4/-rdvEa1T3aM/s1600/IMAG0557.jpg" height="181" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I got lots of funny looks from the security guards that morning.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
and upon delivery.MakerMonkeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05791331445343616307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8206308677692819527.post-78066531027885164362014-09-14T21:06:00.000-07:002014-09-15T22:08:25.282-07:00The Outside Bathroom<h3>
Summer. </h3>
<h4>
Hot days, pool parties, and kids stomping through the house.</h4>
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SVpBQ4vzlOE/U_kFu1L7LWI/AAAAAAAAAlg/8PrSvvvoNqA/s1600/IMAG0367.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><br /></a>Ah, about that last thing... first there was the guest's seven year old who was left to use the bathroom unsupervised. He peed all over the floor and Mama Monkey had to clean it up. Then there were the trio of girls that decided to give themselves a house tour. We found them poking at our parakeets through the bars of their cage. And of course there were the occasions of sunscreen smeared on the cabinets, sticky thighs taking a break on our suede sectional, and numerous instances of dripping pool water on the carpets on the way to the facilities.
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fblpeG96HRQ/U_kF2Lro06I/AAAAAAAAAlo/wsOrqjLIuaE/s1600/IMAG0368.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; font-size: 19px; font-weight: bold; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fblpeG96HRQ/U_kF2Lro06I/AAAAAAAAAlo/wsOrqjLIuaE/s1600/IMAG0368.jpg" height="320" width="181" /></a>For the last few years, Mama Monkey and I have shared a running joke:<br />
<br />
<b>The Outside Bathroom</b>.<br />
<br />
How splendid, we imagined, would it be if we could conjure up a bathroom for the exclusive use of our backyard guests? Then we could host gatherings as often as we pleased, but keep the back doors locked up--as tight as the overstretched skin on the cheeks of an aging Hollywood actress--keeping the party outside! <br />
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This year, we really gave it some serious thought, and realized... well.. <i>why not</i>?<br />
<br />
We being us, this couldn't be just a hole in the ground or a composting toilet or anything else gross like that. While I jokingly referred to the project as<i> the Outhouse</i>, it always had to be the real deal--full flushing toilet, porcelain sink, and running water. Time was short, however, as I only had one month of weekends to build it.<br />
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<br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CYOm177dmfg/U_kFiab8eXI/AAAAAAAAAk4/NJgqW9wnrRs/s1600/IMAG0355.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CYOm177dmfg/U_kFiab8eXI/AAAAAAAAAk4/NJgqW9wnrRs/s1600/IMAG0355.jpg" height="320" width="181" /></a>The plan was to build a small standalone building from the ground up, and tuck it beside the side entrance to our garage. I wanted to use the same stucco-textured <a href="http://www.lowes.com/pd_122550-34299-617601_0__?productId=3071701" target="_blank">Hardie Panel</a> concrete siding boards that I used for the barbecue islands last summer. Since they come in 4x8 sheets, a 4x4 building would be ideal, and just large enough to comfortably fit a toilet and small sink.<br />
<br />
Conveniently, the drainage could run to a nearby sewer cleanout at the side of the house, so I started by building an elevated platform built with pressure treated lumber. The raised floor height would allow space for piping below the toilet and provide the proper 1/4"-per-ft. down slope to the cleanout.<br />
<br />
Above the platform, I framed the structure with 2x4 and 2x2 lumber, keeping the side walls half normal thickness to maximize the inside space. The front would need to be full depth, however, as I would have to frame and hang a door inside of it.<br />
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<br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TwTNCBj8gho/U_kFpAyIk2I/AAAAAAAAAlI/-BG8uV7cflo/s1600/IMAG0357.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TwTNCBj8gho/U_kFpAyIk2I/AAAAAAAAAlI/-BG8uV7cflo/s1600/IMAG0357.jpg" height="320" width="181" /></a><br />
<br />
With the walls open, I roughed in the plumbing and electrical. I used armored cable to wire up a combination light and vent fan, connecting them and a switch to an AC power inlet jack so the bathroom could be powered by an extension cord.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-01wMPURgIY4/VBEvWm7LhZI/AAAAAAAAAmc/nboyaxl_eD0/s1600/ventcap00.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-01wMPURgIY4/VBEvWm7LhZI/AAAAAAAAAmc/nboyaxl_eD0/s1600/ventcap00.png" height="200" width="178" /></a>I connected water supply lines to an RV-style garden hose water inlet connector. For waste venting, I ran a pipe up and out the back wall, topping it with a custom vent cap I designed and printed on my 3D printer.<br />
<br />
With those two items complete, I insulated the walls with rigid foam to keep out some of the summer heat.<br />
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<br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GLmfjJtf6V0/U_kFrn86yPI/AAAAAAAAAlY/awxzWw9jeP4/s1600/IMAG0354.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GLmfjJtf6V0/U_kFrn86yPI/AAAAAAAAAlY/awxzWw9jeP4/s1600/IMAG0354.jpg" height="320" width="181" /></a>The stucco-textured Hardie Panel made easy work of the exterior. They screwed right on with self-tapping screws. Then, add a little paint applied by some industrious volunteers and presto! a perfect match for the house.<br />
<br />
The only puzzling dilemma was how to finish the exposed panel edges at the corners. In the end, I ripped PVC rain gutters to make inexpensive waterproof L-channel trim: functional, yet a fraction of the cost of raw PVC angle material.<br />
<br />
For the roof, I chose a simple slanted shed roof with <a href="http://www.lowes.com/pd_12747-1115-158_0__?productId=3010607&Ntt=alphalt+roofing+panels&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dalphalt%2Broofing%2Bpanels&facetInfo=" target="_blank">Ondura Fiber/Asphalt Roofing Panels</a> mounted to a 1x6 frame. To avoid penetrations in the surface, I routed the output of the exhaust fan to vent holes under the eaves,<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SVpBQ4vzlOE/U_kFu1L7LWI/AAAAAAAAAlg/8PrSvvvoNqA/s1600/IMAG0367.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SVpBQ4vzlOE/U_kFu1L7LWI/AAAAAAAAAlg/8PrSvvvoNqA/s1600/IMAG0367.jpg" height="320" width="181" /></a></div>
One of the benefits of having only sixteen square feet is that one can afford to splurge a bit on finishes.<br />
<br />
We chose materials to keep the bathroom water resistant, including FRP
(<span class="st">fiberglass reinforced plastic)<i></i></span> walls, and PVC wainscoting, baseboards, crown molding,
and trim.<br />
<br />
For flooring, we chose a nice porcelain floor tile, and set a single box with <a href="http://www.google.com/shopping/product/6584075330734322833?lsf=seller:8740,store:531242220724062167&hl=en&cm_mmc=shopping-_-googleads-_-pla-_-100122448&ci_sku=100122448&ci_gpa=pla&ci_src=17588969&gclid=Cj0KEQjw-dSgBRDb0oOl9MzxqMEBEiQAkHqy-S3z1i13LH01_Arf3iQ_gpAXqxLL1DtviCBc3xMkNmQaAr808P8HAQ" target="_blank">crack-resistant thinset</a> and waterproof <a href="http://www.homedepot.com/p/SnapStone-Raincloud-Gray-9-lb-Urethane-Flexible-Grout-11-205-02-01/204508681?cm_mmc=shopping-_-googleads-_-pla-_-204508681&ci_sku=204508681&ci_gpa=pla&ci_src=17588969&gclid=Cj0KEQjw-dSgBRDb0oOl9MzxqMEBEiQAkHqy-XKoGGoI1MN-VGEfskCXiJoYovm-sR_C0kba8yFQeIQaAuJW8P8HAQ#specifications" target="_blank">flexible urethane grout</a>.<br />
<br />
Finding a proper sink proved to be a challenge, but a tiny pedestal sink from <a href="http://www.signaturehardware.com/bathroom/bathroom-sinks/ultra-petite-victorian-pedestal-sink.html" target="_blank">Signature Hardware</a> fit perfectly. To hold the sink, I fabricated an aluminum bracket with threaded posts and imbedded it in the wall before skinning it. The finished floor height ended up being about 3/4" lower than estimated, but I was able to compensate for the difference using my 3D printer to fabricate an extra spacer ring to fit between the sink and pedestal.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2NzE3Fzi4mY/U_kF84flgdI/AAAAAAAAAmI/-qu-AV-8qa0/s1600/IMAG0407.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2NzE3Fzi4mY/U_kF84flgdI/AAAAAAAAAmI/-qu-AV-8qa0/s1600/IMAG0407.jpg" height="320" width="181" /></a></div>
After five weekends of planning and construction, finally, here is the completed bathroom. During construction, the floor platform rested on temporary casters so the bathroom could be pulled out to access all sides. After completion, it was simply rolled back into place.<br />
<br />
The unit it technically portable, since the sewage line connects with
hose clamps, power is plugged in, and water comes from a garden hose. The floor platform is even purposefully open in front and sized to fit a forklift or manual
forklift cart. <br />
<br />
However, it currently works splendidly well where it is. It has proven to be super convenient and a big hit with both guests and family.<br />
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Next, up, the pizza oven!<br />
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<br />MakerMonkeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05791331445343616307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8206308677692819527.post-70077882432149683952013-10-14T07:18:00.000-07:002013-10-14T07:57:51.739-07:00The Secret of Monkey (BBQ) IslandAvast ye mateys!<br />
<br />
Okay. So maybe <a href="http://www.talklikeapirate.com/piratehome.html" target="_blank">talk like a pirate day</a> was last month, but I couldn't resist it given my fond memories for that other <a href="http://www.lucasarts.com/games/monkeyisland/" target="_blank">Monkey Island</a> of lore. The latest project on the Monkey grounds has indeed been an island, albeit a far more terrestrial barbecue
island and not nearly the maritime destination as its electronic diversional
counterpart.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ntWYA2J7nzI/Ulq3H0z_q2I/AAAAAAAAAfQ/azpf0Tp6aSk/s1600/CIMG1217.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ntWYA2J7nzI/Ulq3H0z_q2I/AAAAAAAAAfQ/azpf0Tp6aSk/s320/CIMG1217.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ahoy Matey!</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
They say a man's home is his castle. "They" obviously refers to
people who have never been married, or they would surely know that
instead a man's home is in fact <i>HER</i> castle, and that includes all the inside
rooms, common areas, kitchen, bathrooms, any place that doesn't have a
greasy vehicle in it or hasn't been explicitly designated the <a href="http://makermonkey.blogspot.com/2012/12/man-cave-phase-iii-painting-and-finish.html" target="_blank">Man Cave</a>.<br />
<br />
The only other refuge that qualifies for a similar
variance is a place dedicated to the practice of that distinctly
sooty- fiery-burny (and hence sufficiently "manly") style of cooking: the Outdoor Kitchen.<br />
<br />
I must admit that even outdoors, I do very little of the cooking, but that's no excuse not to embark on another construction project. <br />
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While we already had a standalone stainless grill and gazebo, what we really needed was a more complete solution that lessened the need to shuttle back and forth from the inside, giving flying pests more opportunity to breach the "castle's" outer perimeter. I had previously laid water pipe and electrical conduit underneath the patio in preparation for an addition like this, but didn't know what final form it would take. We decided to build a pair of islands to straddle the grill that could provide storage, work surfaces, a sink, and refrigerator.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ArtOTu2CdCs/Ulq0uM_C8gI/AAAAAAAAAdE/ogbcSzV-uZQ/s1600/CIMG1121.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ArtOTu2CdCs/Ulq0uM_C8gI/AAAAAAAAAdE/ogbcSzV-uZQ/s320/CIMG1121.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bottom Rails</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I started by laying out the base using some galvanized steel channel track I got off <a href="http://craigslist.org/" target="_blank">Craigslist</a>. A fellow was selling seven boxes of components from an expandable wall framing system. These wall sections are designed to each scissor open and extend out to instantly frame a 4-foot length of partition wall. I got the whole load for $35 and salvaged them into their component studs and track sections, which provided more than enough material for entire project.
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The parts came together quickly using just tin snips, vice grips, and self-tapping screws, much like a large <a href="http://www.erector.us/" target="_blank">Erector Set</a>, and at the end of the first weekend was ready for siding. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ehD9nZaZ2pU/Ulq0yEYGb4I/AAAAAAAAAdQ/LLw6YNGwHoE/s1600/CIMG1124.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ehD9nZaZ2pU/Ulq0yEYGb4I/AAAAAAAAAdQ/LLw6YNGwHoE/s320/CIMG1124.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rough Framing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zysjsKb80_s/Ulq04L0LKBI/AAAAAAAAAdg/bMHRYd-Swik/s1600/CIMG1130.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zysjsKb80_s/Ulq04L0LKBI/AAAAAAAAAdg/bMHRYd-Swik/s320/CIMG1130.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Adding composite lumber feet</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
However, working with jagged sheet metal was not without its downsides,
as the skin of my fingers and palms collected more holes than the plot of <a href="http://movieplotholes.com/batman-and-robin.html" target="_blank">Batman and Robin</a>.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ggktlz6iqzU/Ulq0wDvHVGI/AAAAAAAAAdI/iFbhLEbxy-I/s1600/CIMG1129.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ggktlz6iqzU/Ulq0wDvHVGI/AAAAAAAAAdI/iFbhLEbxy-I/s320/CIMG1129.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Both islands framed</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--xgVSfxsEwk/Ulq1KuGiiCI/AAAAAAAAAeE/3DcAghpnL98/s1600/CIMG1140.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-l1tw50_7Vsg/Ulq06BzNwPI/AAAAAAAAAds/3lav7PRXhX0/s1600/CIMG1132.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-l1tw50_7Vsg/Ulq06BzNwPI/AAAAAAAAAds/3lav7PRXhX0/s320/CIMG1132.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cutting stucco siding</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The normal way to create a stucco finish is rather messy and time-consuming, and involves first siding the boxes with plywood, then wrapping them with mesh, and then laboriously applying a layers of mortar and stucco to the outside. Too inefficient for me.<br />
<br />
Fortunately, JamesHardie makes a stucco-textured siding panel that can be cut with a circular saw (with diamond blade) and simply screwed into place as a standalone covering. I found it at the local <a href="http://www.lowes.com/pd_122550-34299-617601_?PL=1&productId=3071701" target="_blank">Lowes</a> for $37 per 4x8 sheet. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--xgVSfxsEwk/Ulq1KuGiiCI/AAAAAAAAAeE/3DcAghpnL98/s1600/CIMG1140.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--xgVSfxsEwk/Ulq1KuGiiCI/AAAAAAAAAeE/3DcAghpnL98/s320/CIMG1140.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Attaching siding over moisture barrier</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After wrapping the framing in a plastic moisture barrier, I simply cut and screwed in the Hardie Panel, countersinking the screw heads so I could caulk over them later.<br />
<br />
My plan was to simply screw it into place, caulk and fill the corners and screw holes, then paint over the whole shebang to match the house.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ia17NBq-lLE/Ulq1SiEEmnI/AAAAAAAAAeY/Ix-3XO3isAE/s1600/CIMG1146.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ia17NBq-lLE/Ulq1SiEEmnI/AAAAAAAAAeY/Ix-3XO3isAE/s320/CIMG1146.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Framing overhangs</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The overhanging edges of the counter needed special attention, so fortunately I had a little help. We boxed overhang using galvanized studs, and then clad the countertop with pressure treated outdoor plywood.
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D8zon_nuNUw/Ulq1aWLLpLI/AAAAAAAAAeg/M5fZD1PytJ0/s1600/CIMG1156.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D8zon_nuNUw/Ulq1aWLLpLI/AAAAAAAAAeg/M5fZD1PytJ0/s320/CIMG1156.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Working in tight spaces</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Both little monkeys did their best to help. Though they really thought the open cabinets made a great clubhouse and really preferred we not finish it.<br />
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I sealed the plywood with <a href="http://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-Building-Products-RedGard-1-gal-Waterproofing-and-Crack-Prevention-Membrane-LQWAF1/100169081#.Ulrq0CQ2_fY" target="_blank">RedGard</a> waterproofing membrane, then screwed some steel angle iron to the edges to keep the plywood from curling up. I applied a layer of cement backerboard using thinset and screws. Then another layer of RedGard went on top of the cement board, both to waterproof it and prevent the tile from cracking.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ncOjpF7l5vU/Ulq1tvdVLxI/AAAAAAAAAeo/MMyI-9q00as/s1600/CIMG1195.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ncOjpF7l5vU/Ulq1tvdVLxI/AAAAAAAAAeo/MMyI-9q00as/s320/CIMG1195.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reinforcing edges</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-utmyLIakzAc/Ulq15fQ7lLI/AAAAAAAAAew/Y3aVajCC-wg/s1600/CIMG1215.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-utmyLIakzAc/Ulq15fQ7lLI/AAAAAAAAAew/Y3aVajCC-wg/s320/CIMG1215.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Work break</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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My first thought was to leave open shelves for simplicity, but I was convinced that adding stainless doors would be a worthwhile addition.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Xnj93bUo5LA/UlrtYx1kUwI/AAAAAAAAAhA/njALU582pFU/s1600/IMAG0073.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Xnj93bUo5LA/UlrtYx1kUwI/AAAAAAAAAhA/njALU582pFU/s200/IMAG0073.jpg" width="113" /></a></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5i328FMU9AI/UlrtWzCW6dI/AAAAAAAAAgw/invZhPa-CBk/s1600/IMAG0075.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="181" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5i328FMU9AI/UlrtWzCW6dI/AAAAAAAAAgw/invZhPa-CBk/s320/IMAG0075.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stainless doors</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
From <a href="http://www.bbqguys.com/" target="_blank">BBQGuys.com</a>,
I ordered a tilt-out garbage can holder and two sets of double doors,
one with a built-in deep storage drawer. Costing a grand total for the
set, it was by far the largest expense, but in the end so worth it. <br />
<br />
<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zAqsDMGuagg/Ulq2IQ8p_OI/AAAAAAAAAfA/0ZoBTTmgID0/s1600/CIMG1223.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zAqsDMGuagg/Ulq2IQ8p_OI/AAAAAAAAAfA/0ZoBTTmgID0/s320/CIMG1223.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cutting slate tile</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We always planned on tiling the top, but were unsure of what type of tile to use. In the end, we found a great deal on clearance natural slate tile at a <a href="http://bedrosians.com/" target="_blank">local tile store</a> for $1.99 a square foot. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MgXe6qURciI/Ulq2HwYh9KI/AAAAAAAAAe4/WzDQqU4pgVU/s1600/CIMG1225.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MgXe6qURciI/Ulq2HwYh9KI/AAAAAAAAAe4/WzDQqU4pgVU/s320/CIMG1225.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished tile</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Using a cheap tile saw I have purchased years ago at <a href="http://harborfreight.com/" target="_blank">Harbor Freight</a> (one of my favorite stores), I was able to quickly cut and set the tiles, then finish the top off using a water resistant grout (no sealing!).<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-f4gI2E8o5HY/Ulq2IGhjKEI/AAAAAAAAAe8/NVTM94riuuE/s1600/CIMG1226.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-f4gI2E8o5HY/Ulq2IGhjKEI/AAAAAAAAAe8/NVTM94riuuE/s320/CIMG1226.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Prepped for sink</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I dropped in a composite granite bar sink into an opening I had left in the countertop. I plumbed the supply lines to pipes I had laid down before the patio concrete was poured, and I routed the drain lines to a dry well I dug in the dirt behind the island.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0nJNU0DaTDI/UlrtbsvCAPI/AAAAAAAAAhI/6KJqLxiG4N4/s1600/IMAG0076.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0nJNU0DaTDI/UlrtbsvCAPI/AAAAAAAAAhI/6KJqLxiG4N4/s320/IMAG0076.jpg" width="181" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mounting sink</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After adding plumbing and electrical outlets, the only one last final
touch remained.<br />
<br />
I planned to use a small bar refrigerator that I got
for free off <a href="http://www.freecycle.org/" target="_blank">Freecycle</a>
a number of years ago, but it was clashingly black in color. This
presented the perfect opportunity to try out a new product I'd read
about online.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mIrZqMJjyBw/UlrjpZh-xkI/AAAAAAAAAfg/Y4OZUW-tp2A/s1600/IMAG0030.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mIrZqMJjyBw/UlrjpZh-xkI/AAAAAAAAAfg/Y4OZUW-tp2A/s320/IMAG0030.jpg" width="181" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ugly fridge</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Thomas "<a href="http://www.liquidstainlesssteel.com/" target="_blank">Liquid Stainless Steel</a>" is a paint-on system that claims to
give the attractive look of "brushed stainless steel" as "commonly used in chef's
kitchens". I was a little skeptical, but at only $25 for their
range/dishwasher kit (and a fridge that was free in the first place), I
had little to lose.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VOb6dX87cpQ/UlrjzRz9bbI/AAAAAAAAAf8/g3ScUlH3-Tg/s1600/IMAG0031.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VOb6dX87cpQ/UlrjzRz9bbI/AAAAAAAAAf8/g3ScUlH3-Tg/s320/IMAG0031.jpg" width="181" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Uglier fridge</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The kit comes with a small foam brush, a can of clear protectant, and a can of
"color" coat that consists of fine stainless steel particles suspended
in automative paint resin. You're supposed to carefully brush on a few thin coats
of color, followed by up to three clear coats of top coat to add shine and
protect the finish. The instructions warn that the first few color coats
will look quite bad, but not to worry. I certainly found that to be the
case; the initial coat looked horrible, but the look indeed improved with each successive coat.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8eNMINnUGcs/UlrjqeuWllI/AAAAAAAAAfo/vKXIxBBH_tA/s1600/IMAG0050.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8eNMINnUGcs/UlrjqeuWllI/AAAAAAAAAfo/vKXIxBBH_tA/s320/IMAG0050.jpg" width="181" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Somewhat less ugly fridge</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
In the end, I was pleasantly surprised. While by no means a replacement
for stainless steel, it resembled what it was; a faux painting
technique that evoked a stainless-like look.<br />
<br />
At the right angle and a
distance of 10 or more feet, it looked fairly convincing, certainly enough for an appliance that would live outside. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-o0wE4MOGrdc/Ulrj9kJ2yCI/AAAAAAAAAgg/tFcTE-Gs-bU/s1600/IMAG0059.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-o0wE4MOGrdc/Ulrj9kJ2yCI/AAAAAAAAAgg/tFcTE-Gs-bU/s320/IMAG0059.jpg" width="181" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Faux Stainless</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
So in the end, did it give the look of a "Chef's Kitchen"?<br />
<br />
Hmm. Well--especially close up--no Thomas Keller would probably not be terribly impressed. But <i>Helen </i>Keller... maybe.
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So here are pictures of the final product.<br />
<br />
In the corners of each island, I later drilled large holes to mount shade umbrellas for additional sun protection, also lining the paths for the umbrellas shafts with pipe that could channel any rainwater to safe outlets underneath the islands.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GyJ4SFC3mJA/Ulrjw8Y2GNI/AAAAAAAAAfw/YeLJrXfF1AA/s1600/IMAG0054.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="181" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GyJ4SFC3mJA/Ulrjw8Y2GNI/AAAAAAAAAfw/YeLJrXfF1AA/s320/IMAG0054.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-diR0po1J2AM/Ulrjy_QUtlI/AAAAAAAAAf4/nmEKmSBKxA8/s1600/IMAG0055.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="181" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-diR0po1J2AM/Ulrjy_QUtlI/AAAAAAAAAf4/nmEKmSBKxA8/s320/IMAG0055.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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MakerMonkeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05791331445343616307noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8206308677692819527.post-31885015864079837192013-07-31T21:41:00.000-07:002013-10-09T14:29:49.918-07:00Jungle Gym for the Monkeys<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b_nhXAsZ_wI/UfnYo4CHi0I/AAAAAAAAAZ4/A6p7w3j7Qak/s1600/CIMG1070.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b_nhXAsZ_wI/UfnYo4CHi0I/AAAAAAAAAZ4/A6p7w3j7Qak/s320/CIMG1070.jpg" width="239" /></a>Anybody with two boys can tell you; trying to confine them inside on a nice day is like trying to limit Michael Bay to making movies where nothing blows up. It would probably be so much effort that you'd be better off just trying to make sure nobody gets hurt in the process.<br />
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When Mama Monkey and I were looking for a new Monkey House a few years
ago, one of our top "must have" items was enough space in the backyard
to erect a jungle gym... Confession: "play structure" is perhaps a more
appropriate term, but then the title of this blog entry wouldn't been
nearly as simiantastically satisfying without the jungle reference.<br />
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When
I was a kid back in the stone ages, nobody had "play structures". We
had "swing sets"--flimsy structures of thin-walled steel tubing held
together with long-lost screws, rust, and peeling faded paint. The
goal, of course was to swing so high that the pipes began to separate
and slide out of each other, so that with each rhythmic swing, we were
progressively one cycle closer to wonderfully catastrophic collapse.<br />
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Play structures today are a still a site for silliness (pay attention to Monkey in the background), but they've become a big deal. <br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyL79hK0rNomjU-Dqnz-mtT2clOMywRBmUZv6QKN1MkJUpVqDhKH-g66KZ-YvQvSvyaXDYd9lNkarENgOqPMA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe>.<br />
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They come in a wide range of sizes and prices, from small sensible units like this $400 <a href="http://www.toysrus.com/product/index.jsp?productId=12456933" target="_blank">basic sensible wood gym playset</a> at ToysRUs...<br />
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<a href="http://images.costco.com/image/media/350-706954-847__1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Kid's Creations Adventure Mountain Playset - Installation Included" border="0" height="200" src="http://images.costco.com/image/media/350-706954-847__1.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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To this $15000 <a href="http://www.costco.com/Kid%27s-Creations-Adventure-Mountain-Playset---Installation-Included.product.100015126.html" target="_blank">behemoth Adventure Mountain Playset</a> sold by Costco.<br />
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Hmm. Don't get me wrong. We love our kids, but I wasn't ready yet to shell out more than <a href="https://secure.californiacolleges.edu/finance/how-much-does-college-cost.asp" target="_blank">a year of college tuition</a> at my Alma mater for them to just burn off some energy and get some fresh air.<br />
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Instead, I was looking for something in between, but couldn't find a way to get the perfect combination of price, configuration and build quality.<br />
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<a href="http://www.detailedplay.com/images/SP-JFT-2630L20W.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Jungle Fort Tower - Site Plan 2" border="0" height="242" src="http://www.detailedplay.com/images/SP-JFT-2630L20W.jpg" width="292" /></a>That was until I found <a href="http://detailedplay.com/" target="_blank">Detailed Play Systems</a>.
They sell downloadable plans for a fairly intricate play structure that
you make yourself with many options for configuration and expansion
using your choice of lumber and commercially available parts. <br />
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When we had the hardscape poured in our back- and side-yards, we left a large rectangular area for a future play structure, encircling it with a sidewalk path where the little monkeys could run around, skate, or ride their bikes and tricycles. With a little reconfiguration and modification, the design from Detailed Play Systems would fit perfectly in this area. The plans are painstakingly complete, and after awhile looking through them I felt comfortable tweaking them to suit our needs.<br />
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The first step was to prepare the ground. This involved leveling and packing the earth, and then covering it with heavy duty weed cloth.<br />
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Big Monkey and I used <a href="http://www.amazon.com/DeWitt-P5-Weed-Barrier-Fabric/dp/B002HJDL4E" target="_blank">DeWitt Pro5</a> commercial landscape fabric that has become my go-to product for this sort of thing. Much heavier-duty than the stuff you can get at the home center, this material won't (hopefully) disintegrate after only a few years of use.<br />
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The next step was to sketch out the structure in chalk on the fabric and begin building the frame. High end commercially-available play structures use redwood, while lower end ones use cheaper unspecified varieties the manufacturers optimistically describe as "rot resistant". I chose to take it one step further by using pressure-treated lumber. While pressure-treated wood used to rely on arsenic compounds--making them unsuitable for playground equipment--manufacturers phased them out about ten years ago and now use copper-based compounds. I spent about $1000 in total lumber costs.<br />
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The assembly was straightforward, but awkward at points for one monkey to do due to the structure's weight. The DPS plans give precise measurements for every cut and hole, and seem designed for allowing parts for the complete structure to be built off site. Since I could bring my tools to the build location, however, I found it much easier to just cut pieces to fit as needed and drill holes through mating members at the same time, allowing me to account for imperfections and bends in the wood.<br />
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The frame of the main tower and swing came together quickly using the specfied hot-dip-galvanized fasteners. The special galvanization is necessary because copper preservatives tend to quickly corrode ordinary fasteners--they act as a battery when place in contact with unprotected steel. The second tower went up a few months later.<br />
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For the decking, I found a seller on eBay who was getting rid of a load of old composite lumber (Trex) decking boards he had replaced under warranty. They had varying amounts of surface cracking and peeling, but were still good on the underside and insides. For $30 total--the price of one new board--, I got a full truckload of odds and ends, the majority of which I used as decking for the towers, and cut down and routed the rest as balusters for the railings.<br />
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One of the great things about the Internet Age (other than "building a global community", "open access to information" and all of that fluff) is that you can buy anything you want on Amazon. This includes swings, slides, bumpers, and all the other parts real manufacturers use to build the fancy play structures they charge a buttload for. After a ton of searching, I found a deal where Amazon was insane enough to offer a "free shipping" special on a spiral slide. I exercised my credit card and spent about a grand on all the commercial swing parts and accessories to the unit the true pro treatment.<br />
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The last step before unleashing the monkeys was to provide some soft cushioning for their little monkey butts. We chose brown recycled rubber bark for its longevity and appearance. This stuff is made from old tires and is not cheap, but it lasts forever so you don't have to "refresh" it every year. We bought three one-ton "super sacks" for $2000, and paid some laborers to convey the bark to the back yard.<br />
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And here are shots of the completed play structure. The majority of it was
actually completed almost two summers ago, so you can see that the
structure and bark are both aging quite well. We tacked on a few pieces
from an older Step 2 tot structure we had to give it a little more variety,
and recent additions include the sandbox below and the shade structures
above. Together, they all cement the structure's place as the
backyard's center of activity for what we hope will be many summers to
come.<br />
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<br />MakerMonkeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05791331445343616307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8206308677692819527.post-54070496841193557542013-02-10T10:51:00.002-08:002013-03-05T13:44:50.843-08:003D Printing, the Frankenlamp, and the World's Awesomest Time Waster <br />
This holiday season, the Cave got a new addition, thanks to the kind generosity of "Santa" (aka Mama Monkey and her folks). I got a new <a href="http://www.solidoodle.com/" target="_blank">Solidoodle Pro</a> 3D printer, an invaluable tool and the ultimate plaything for any Maker or Maker wannabe.<br />
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While the term "3D printing" conjures up images of red/green glasses and bootleg <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/View-Master" target="_blank">ViewMaster</a> reels, the real technology is much cooler and occasionally even useful.<br />
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I had my first introduction to 3D printing in the Spring of 2004. It was Wired "NextFest" at Fort Mason, and my friend Debbie and I were fortunate enough to experience a largely splendid showcase of groundbreakingly mundane and trivial technology. We derisively called it "nyet-fest" at the time. Nevertheless, nestled in one corner of the exhibition hall, Z Corporation demonstrated something remarkable I had never seen before. Using inkjet printer components, they had created a device that repeatedly sprayed a fine pattern of water into a bed of plaster, and used it to build up--layer by layer--little plaster statues with remarkable detail. <br />
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This demonstration of technology used what Wikipedia refers to as "<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Powder_bed_and_inkjet_head_3d_printing" target="_blank">plaster based 3D modeling</a>" (PP), and one of the first examples of a new class of affordable rapid prototyping tools. Using it, one could create a small plaster model of practically anything. If memory serves, Z-Corp's printer still cost around many thousands of dollars a pop, however, and while plaster is fine for making owl statues and Yoda heads, it's not particularly strong or well suited for making functional parts.<br />
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The Solidoodle, on the other hand, uses newer "<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fdm" target="_blank">fused deposition modeling</a>" (FDM), which is a essentially a tiny computer controlled glue gun that builds objects layer by layer out of a fine stream of melted plastic. The technology is emerging and still a little finicky, but has recently become very affordable largely due to the efforts of the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RepRap" target="_blank">RepPap Project</a>. Unlike plaster, plastic is flexible and durable, and thus well suited for all sorts of functional objects. Accordingly, I set forth to make useful items and officially designated the Monkey Man Cave as a <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_vloWVgf0o" target="_blank">Yoda head</a>-free zone.<br />
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The printer arrived a few weeks ago, and after creating a few custom Lego blocks, replacement missing stool feet, and a new battery cover for a remote control, I was ready for something more sizable and challenging.<br />
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The desk in the Man Cave had a nice tiffany type lamp, which my architectural ignorance I will describe as being in the art-deco/arts-and-crafts/mission style. While I really liked the lamp, I had recently also pruchased a desk-mounted monitor arm, and the lamp was in the way when I wanted to swing the monitor off to the side. Not content to live with the problem, I came up with a simple solution; Frankenstein the two together, making an unholy monitor arm/lamp union that could combine forces to rule the galaxy while paying homage to the style of the original lamp at the same time. The 3D printer would be essential.<br />
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The monitor arm pivoted on a plain chrome tube that clamped onto the edge of a desk. To keep the arm from hitting the lamp when it swings around, the idea was to mount the tube permanently on the desk and to wire the tube itself as a new replacement lamp. To keep with the previous style, however, we'd have to dress up the plain chrome tube.<br />
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The existing lamp featured decorative cast metal base topped with beautiful stained glass shade. I would keep the shade, but the base was too narrow to be re-purposed for the new Frankenlamp. Instead, I'd have to use the 3D printer to create a new base from scratch.<br />
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The first step was easy. I mounted the monitor stand by unscrewing it from the clamp it came with and fashioned a mounting plate from a large 1/4" thick fender washer. This I mounted to the desk after drilling a hole for the new lamp wires.<br />
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The 3D printer has a maximum print envelope of 6x6x6 inches, so it could not print the lamp base in one piece. I used OpenSCAD, a parametric code-based design program to create the base with four interlocking pieces that could be printed separately.<br />
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Each piece took about three hours to print from a few dollars of black ABS plastic filament. I used the printer's low-resolution mode, which left the pieces with a subtle horizontal surface texture reminiscent of raw machined metal.<br />
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A light coat of spray paint in oil rubbed bronze completed the illusion.<br />
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To build up the lamp base, I simply slipped the printed pieces over the chrome monitor support tube. and topped it with a hose clamp that would both hold the parts together and bear the weight of the monitor arm. A custom top cap piece covered the whole assembly.<br />
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I drilled a hole in the top cap to fit a standard lamp assembly from the hardware store, and fastened it to the top with the original lamp shade.<br />
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This is the competed Frankenlamp. Not only does it make a nice addition to the Man Cave, but I was able to add a fabric shade to the original base and reuse it in another part of the house.<br />
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<br />MakerMonkeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05791331445343616307noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8206308677692819527.post-91704469468530181922012-12-16T10:42:00.001-08:002012-12-16T10:42:43.426-08:00Man Cave Phase III - Painting and Finish<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5GB1JXVXvDo/UM1pClOwLhI/AAAAAAAAASk/g-cGyoYKshA/s1600/CIMG0677.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5GB1JXVXvDo/UM1pClOwLhI/AAAAAAAAASk/g-cGyoYKshA/s320/CIMG0677.jpg" width="239" /></a>Progress on the Monkey Man-Cave slowed significantly this summer, as other projects, distractions, and... well... life took precedence instead. Still, moving forward was possible by doing a little here and there on occasional free evenings and weekend afternoons.<br />
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The next step was to add some color to the newly textured walls. Big Monkey is always happy to help, especially when painting is involved. He is a hard worker and, all things considered, did a surprisingly good job, at least on sections of the walls between one and four feet high.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TuYXCkPgnzQ/UM1pSfXbnaI/AAAAAAAAATk/K1YZyxcC9Pc/s1600/IMGP3770.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-09BfzKGcPtI/UM1pJY6v6-I/AAAAAAAAAS0/hY-QkXSkLJw/s1600/CIMG0720.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-laLlqCFGOnc/UM1pFyJLW2I/AAAAAAAAASs/UUbofgkN-iY/s1600/CIMG0681.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-laLlqCFGOnc/UM1pFyJLW2I/AAAAAAAAASs/UUbofgkN-iY/s320/CIMG0681.jpg" width="239" /></a>Since the Man Cave would function partially as a shop, I chose a gloss finish latex for easier cleaning. With experience painting almost all the rooms in a few houses now, I've become a big fan of Behr Premium paint-plus-primer. Its extra thick formulation makes it cover with fewer coats, and it has much less of a tendency to drip, which is important since I'm often too impatient to put drop cloths over everything..</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-09BfzKGcPtI/UM1pJY6v6-I/AAAAAAAAAS0/hY-QkXSkLJw/s1600/CIMG0720.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-09BfzKGcPtI/UM1pJY6v6-I/AAAAAAAAAS0/hY-QkXSkLJw/s320/CIMG0720.jpg" width="239" /></a>Before the walls could be finished, however, two small projects needed to be completed. First, to pass through light from the garage door lites behind, I assembled a window from individual glass blocks and caulked them into the opening previously framed in the far wall.<br />
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To inflate tires and power pneumatic tools at key locations, I also installed outlets and tubing from a <a href="http://www.rapidairproducts.com/rapidair.asp" target="_blank">RapidAir Compressed Air System</a>. This product features plastic pressure-rated tubing, push-on fittings, and machined aluminum manifolds that connect together quickly and easily to make a flexible air distribution system that can be routed through walls.</div>
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For floors, I chose a TrafficMaster Allure polyvinyl floating floor at <a href="http://www.homedepot.com/" target="_blank">Home Depot</a> Waterproof and durable, vinyl seemed like an ideal product to install over the bare concrete. The TrafficMaster product comes in simulated wood-like boards and features patented overlapping strips that fasten the planks to each other instead of the subfloor so seams won't open up. Best of all, they cut with scissors and feature a peel-and-stick install so that the whole room could be done in only a few hours.</div>
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As easy as they were to lay down, Little Monkey still wasn't a whole lot of direct help in the process. He chose to watch and supervise instead.</div>
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After hacking down and hanging a reclaimed door from Craigslist, casing the window and doors, adding some light fixtures, and doing some remedial decorating, the Monkey Cave now has a nice space for computer and office work.<br />
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The other side of the Cave provides good working space for a workbench with tools and parts for projects. A rolling cart (not shown) holds table and miter saws that can be moved outside for more substantial construction.<br />
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On the last wall, the addition of some storage cabinets and a modest TV (a hand-me-down from the family room) complete the project. Now, an area that was once just an empty parking space is nicely serviceable Monkey Man-Cave for projects and days working from home. </div>
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<br />MakerMonkeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05791331445343616307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8206308677692819527.post-59691422737403404472012-11-01T14:17:00.001-07:002012-11-02T06:48:02.770-07:00Going Green the Hard Way<h2 style="text-align: center;">
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Growing up, my Mom always accused me of having a "black" (i.e. not "green") thumb, meaning that properly growing and caring for living plants was not within my natural skill set. In my defense, I really don't think using scotch tape to hastily repair broken stalks of a knocked down houseplant should count. Any good legal expert would tell you that emergency trauma situations are entirely different, and that Good Samaritan laws do (or at least should) offer plenty of protection in this case. The fact that I was the one who had knocked down the plant in the first place, of course, is clearly immaterial.<br />
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Nevertheless, earlier this summer, it occurred to us that our neighbors might actually speak to us once in awhile if we did something to improve the curb appeal of our new home. The previous owner had apparently done quite a bit to counter-endear herself to the rest of the street, and it was clear that an overt gesture on our part would be necessary. Not bringing down everyone's property values would probably be a good start.</div>
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To match with the street's other manicured lawns and shrubbery, our predecessor had carefully decorated her front lawn with an eclectic mixture of neglected straggly turf, random rocks, creepy desert plants, and exposed landscape fabric and dirt. Lacking sufficient individualism to proudly keep this theme going ourselves, we opted for traditional grass instead.</div>
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Okay. So grass isn't green. Well, of course it's green but it isn't really <i>GREEN</i>. It uses a lot of water and doesn't produce anything nice to eat, unless, of course, you're a goat. And even then, I hear they only munch on it when mindlessly snacking. Truth be told, we really would like to have artificial turf, but with over 2000 square feet of dirt-laden goodness to cover, that just wasn't in the budget.</div>
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Sod would be an easy solution. For a few grand we could have someone regrade the area, fix and extend the sprinklers, and roll out bundles of fresh grass onto the slope like Baby Monkey's bean and cheese burrito on the dining room table at dinner time. Still, that would violate the spirit of being a True Maker and -- even more importantly -- violate the spirit of being a True Cheapskate.</div>
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The cheap solution would be growing grass from seed. For a little more
time and effort, and about $200 in seed, this seemed like a much more palatable
solution. At the local Sloat garden center, we found boxes of dwarf fescue seed that promised drought tolerant, slow-growth grass that could be cut shorter and required less mowing. For us, "mow less" is always "mo' better", so it was an easy choice. </div>
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The first step was to break up the soil and remove all of the existing vegetation, rocks, and debris. For this, we got this <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Earthwise-TC70001-11-Inch-Electric-Cultivator/dp/B004H4X6Z6" target="_blank">Earthlink Electric Cultivator</a> from Amazon for $100. This did the job nicely, and had a surprising amount of power. It had none of the mess, smell, and danger of gas-powered tillers like the one I used as a kid. Nevertheless, I highly recommend it..</div>
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When we had our pool put in, we instructed the contractor to dump much of the excavated soil out front. This leveled out the upper part of the yard (which we wanted) but also buried the existing sprinklers up to a foot below the surface. Consequently, the next step in our saga was to dig out and extend the buried sprinklers and then regrade the soil to a nice smooth slope. This wasn't terribly complicated, but took a good deal of effort involving laying out string lines and a lot of painstaking digging, shoveling, and raking. Fortunately, I had day laborers (such as Big Monkey above) available to help and offer moral support.<br />
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Some, such as Baby Monkey, worked for popsicles.<br />
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We laid out some weed cloth and border edging to make curved planting beds at the base of the hill, then sprinkled grass seed and fertilizer with a rotary spreader. After that, all we had to do was water and wait.<br />
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After a week, voila! sprouts started to appear. After a few months, it had grown to a perfectly passable and respectable lawn. It still contains a fair amount of weeds (mainly dandylions and burr clover) that sprouted with the grass, but I'll treat for them soon once the weather is reliably cooler. Until then, we're lucky that closely cut weeds look an awful lot like closely cut grass.<br />
<br />MakerMonkeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05791331445343616307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8206308677692819527.post-62914557324316879212012-07-02T08:04:00.004-07:002012-07-02T08:53:14.793-07:00Monkey Gardening and the Flip-top Camper Shell<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gDjk7D0ubBM/T-qHtjiIGLI/AAAAAAAAAMc/TC2Tqg0M2RA/s1600/CIMG0666.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="175" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gDjk7D0ubBM/T-qHtjiIGLI/AAAAAAAAAMc/TC2Tqg0M2RA/s200/CIMG0666.jpg" width="130" /></a><i><b>Every</b></i> <i><b>homeowner</b></i>, at some time, for some project, needs a truck... And not a polish-it-every-weekend-keep-it-under-a-cover-pretend-that-it's-still-new type of truck, but a <b><i>real</i></b> truck meant for getting dirty and accomplishing real work rather than being pretty to impress other people.<br />
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Fortunately, I have a small beater truck that fits that description perfectly, especially the not-impressing-other-people part. I bought it from a coworker many years ago for 1000 bucks, and I call it my "Home Depot" truck because it only sees service when I have to haul materials for the latest Monkey project. It has served me well many times over the years, but before the latest project at my family's new digs, it needed a maker-style upgrade.<br />
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The latest Monkey House project is a fruit and vegetable garden to grow goodies like fresh melons, strawberries, tomatoes, and of course,... bananas. For this, we needed to add about 5 cubic yards of soil. In the past, I've hauled building materials in the truck by temporarily unbolting and removing the camper shell, and then using a tarp to cover the bed when traveling. This was laborious and time consuming, however, so I've long wanted to use this as an excuse for building a contraption to make the process easier.</div>
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My idea was to hinge the camper shell so that it could flip
up and forward toward the cab for easy loading. I've never seen anybody
accomplish this, probably because 1) most people are unwilling to defile their vehicle in this way, 2) it's ridiculous, and 3) the camper shell would just hit the cab in
any obvious hinge configuration.<br />
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I originally designed a four-bar linkage mechanism that would raise and pull back the shell as it was tilted, but discovered in testing that if properly placed, only two simple struts were needed. These struts would provide a floating pivot point for the top edge of the shell, and the bottom could carry the weight and slide back along the top edges of the bed sides.</div>
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The only tricky parts of the build were getting the strut placements right and finding a way to flexibly attach the aluminum struts to the camper shell and bed. I attached the top front ends with hinges pop riveted to both the struts and shell frame. For the rear facing ends, however, I need to support rotation from the side of the strut. To do this, I re-purposed the twist hasp of a gate latch to make the odd pivoting attachment.</div>
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With the struts in place, and the addition of a pull handle and some locking clasps to keep the thing secure when driving, the total build was completed in a few hours. The guys at the landscape supply yard were certainly surprised. With a loader, they'd already dropped in two bucket-loads (one cubic yard) of soil and I was closed up and on my way before other customers had even made a dent in the loads they were manually shoveling into their truck beds.</div>
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Of course, I still had to shovel the soil back <b><i>out </i></b>of the truck bed, but at least for that I had Big Monkey to help me. </div>
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Little Monkey was somewhat less help, but made up for it with a high cuteness factor.<br />
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With Mama Monkey handling all the actual green thumbing, all I needed to do was add some irrigation...<br />
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and some border fencing (using landscaping poles, pressure-treated lumber, and galvanized post mounting brackets)...<br />
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and plastic garden lattice nailed with galvanized nails into the fencing (using my new cordless nail gun mentioned in a previous post)<br />
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And that's it. The garden wraps around a large area reserved for the play structure I'm putting the finishing touches on. Note the humble tree in the corner. I can't wait to taste the bananas!</div>
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<br />MakerMonkeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05791331445343616307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8206308677692819527.post-82547163341390808382012-03-09T15:02:00.000-08:002012-03-09T15:02:58.781-08:00Man Cave Phase II - Framing and DrywallWikipedia defines a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Man_cave" target="_blank">Man Cave</a> as a space "<i>where guys can do as they please without fear of upsetting any female sensibility about house decor or design.</i>" While I'm not so sure this entirely applies in my case (as I'm quite fond of my wife's tastes), I've slowly come to realize that my wife and family spend much more time at home, and thus most of the habitable space belongs--in spirit--to them.<br />
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However, when we purchased our home, the plan was that I would convert the third garage parking space into my own private space, and--like most Man Caves--a place to store stuff that for various reasons would best be exiled from the rest of the living quarters. Still, unlike most similar retreats, my hypothetical cave would not take the typical form as a shrine to drinking, eating, burping, and sitting on the couch (ok, maybe some eating). Instead, it would be <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maker_subculture" target="_blank">Maker</a> Man Cave, a place that would serve as my office, shop, and place to play with pointy, pokey, smokey, smelly, shocky things.<br />
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The first step, which I described briefly in the first post, involved framing the walls and a partial dropped ceiling with 2x4 lumber. This took a few days of work spread out over a few weekends, but was complicated by doing the work in a space that I'd already populated with crap. Building a room that's essentially already in use is kind of like building a covered wagon after you've already started heading out West. So far, I haven't run into any big snowstorms, so maybe I'll be lucky enough to reach my end point without metaphorically having to eat my own Donner Pass-style "hungry man" dinners.<br />
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</a></div>Most of the framing has been straightforward, with the possible exception of a 10-foot 4x6 beam to support the ceiling and wall that surrounds the garage door (when open). On the existing side wall, I had to cut, remove and replace a strip of drywall so I could embed king and cripple studs inside to properly support the beam.<br />
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For power, the existing 20 amp garage outlet was tapped to supply a number of new utility outlets...<br />
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and new light fixtures to be suspended from the dropped ceiling.<br />
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Putting up and taping the drywall took a few days but went fairly smoothly. Next time, I'll take more time to thin and mechanically mix the joint compound with a drill mixer before applying it. Instead, I probably wasted a lot of time redoing joints because of lumps in the compound. When I purchased a second bucket of compound that was smoother and slightly more soupy, the joints were astonishingly easier to mud.<br />
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To finish the walls, I chose to take my lead from most home builders these days. Even though I didn't need the walls and joints to look absolutely perfect, a texture can hide a lot of imperfections and save hours of patching and sanding that otherwise would need to be done. Since easy is the path I often like to take, this was the choice for me.<br />
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Fortunately, <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/texture-paint-spray-gun-66103.html" target="_blank">Harbor Freight</a> sells a texture gun for $25 that I've seen on sale for as low at $17. I already purchased one for a previous job so simply had to mix and spray the texture. Unfortunately, mixing and spraying the texture was almost <a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0413300/reviews?filter=hate" target="_blank">as messy as the plot of Spiderman 3,</a> but all I had to do afterward was give it a light sanding to knock down the high spots. <br />
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Finally, it's looking like a real room. The next steps will be to prime and paint the walls and ceilings, hang the doors, and install the fixtures, which I hope to get to soon.MakerMonkeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05791331445343616307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8206308677692819527.post-18035753248681940872012-02-27T21:58:00.006-08:002012-02-29T06:34:33.533-08:00Date Night at French LaundryMy wife and I don't get to enjoy many dress up nights out these days, at least ones that don't consist of knocking on your neighbor's doors with little ones in tow demanding free candy under threat of unspecified retribution. So it was with great excitement that we recently embarked on our journey to <a href="http://thefrenchlaundry.com/" target="_blank">The French Laundry</a> to celebrate my better half's birthday.<br />
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For those unfamiliar, The French Laundry isn't a place to lose your favorite shirt but is instead a renown French restaurant located near Napa Valley in the small town of Yountville. Twice named "Best Restaurant in the World" by Restaurant magazine, it enjoys the exclusive company of just 106 Michelin three star-rated restaurants in the World, only ten of which are in the United States as of 2012. Guests get to choose from either a Chef's Tasting Menu that changes every day or one or two alternate menus, each of which offers nine smallish (French) courses for a fixed rate or $270 per person. While that's certainly a lot of dough, a couple of extra dishes are supposedly included, so we figured that worked out to a more digestible figure of about $25.54 per course.<br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9pkhHGkTWHo/T0sO77Gf4nI/AAAAAAAAAHc/qCHpcqz8AZg/s1600/CIMG0644.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9pkhHGkTWHo/T0sO77Gf4nI/AAAAAAAAAHc/qCHpcqz8AZg/s320/CIMG0644.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>We first read about this place in the paper, and agreed there would be no better way to celebrate the birthday of a best-in-world wife and mother than a few hours pampering as the former while temporarily escaping from being the latter, taking in some Best-in-World grub. The trick was getting a reservation. The reservations window opens up, it turns out (and typically quickly closes) at 10:00am sharp exactly two calendar months before the requested date. We couldn't believe our sheer luck when she was able to secure reservations on only the fifth phone call. After that, it was just a matter of waiting until the big day came.<br />
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"I wonder why it's called French Laundry?" I wondered aloud as I was washing the Man Cave drywall dust out of my hair and getting dressed up to go. "Do you think they'd appreciate the joke if we showed up for our reservation with a hamper of dirty berets and striped shirts?"<br />
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The look she gave me in response reminded me of the time I took my first bite of the <i>kidney pie</i> I ordered at a British themed pub. I placed the order expecting it to be made of kidney <i>beans</i> because I was sure nobody would be so insane as to Frankenstein a cherished baked good with the animal equivalent of a used Britta filter. Leave it to the Brits to defile the sweet wholesome goodness of pie with something as bitter and wretched as kidney meat. <br />
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Anyway, I digress, but I knew my wife was laughing her head off at my little joke... quietly on the inside, as is often the case. She put on a hot-but-classy red dress, and I wore a jacket and tie even though I was pretty sure that was overkill. This was Napa Valley, after all, and I asserted that there was a fair chance there could be "a relaxed dress code" because of the restaurant's location nestled in the middle of California vineyards.<br />
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We arrived at a few minutes early and decided to browse down the road at one of those quaint wine country shops that sells things like $200 coat racks made out expired wine barrel husks. We told the nice saleswoman where we were headed, and she insisted we couldn't leave without taking advantage of the French Laundry's wine pairings to every course. We couldn't see how that could work, however, as my wife and I at best fall into the featherweight class in amateur sport drinking, and rarely have more than a glass or two at a meal. Perhaps--to our benefit--the smallish courses might be accompanied by equally smallish drinks, consumed--probably not to our benefit--out of tiny little french wine glasses you're supposed to hold with two fingers while sticking out your pinkie finger. A smallish price would be nice too, as nine (or eleven) glasses would surely add up quickly.<br />
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The French Laundry is housed in a quaint and unassuming hundred year old building next to a quaint but perfect French courtyard with meticulous landscaping. There are two floors with maybe a dozen tables each and some small alcoves here and there with additional tables. We were seated in a cozy alcove on the ground floor with two other tables that were currently empty. In front of each seat was a cloth napkin carefully folded into a French triangle and secured with an old fashioned clothespin tastefully bearing the restaurant logo and phone number. Nice touch.<br />
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We were presented with a leather folder that contained printed menus and a French iPad that housed the wine list. There were actually three menus that day, one Chef's Tasting Menu, a Vegethusiast (i.e. not quite vegetarian), and a special seasonal menu. Our Head Server (I say "head" because we counted a total of five people who actually waited on us in various ways that night) cheerfully described every dish on the Chef's Tasting Menu, and we made our selections in enthusiastic anticipation of a great meal.<br />
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Before receiving deliverance of our food, our Sommelier came by and asked us for our wine selections. Avoiding embarrassing ourselves with our "winaïveté" we asked he select for us; a white for me, and a red for the birthday girl. I got a German Reisling, and she got... er... something red.<br />
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#1 SALMON CORONETS - The food did not disappoint. The first appetizer dish wasn't on any of the menus but is apparently a regular favorite. It was a <span class="st">salmon tartare cornet that resembled a small blob of fish meat jelly on a tiny sesame ice cream cone filled with sweet cream. It tasted even better than that sounds. It was a refreshing start that combined two of my favorite tastes--sushi and ice cream--in a tasty and sophisticated ... and French... way..</span><br />
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<span class="st">Shortly after the appetizer arrived, a youngish couple were seated at the table next to us. They had just gotten married they announced proudly to the server. </span><span class="st">As the fellow started reflexively taking off his jacket, he was politely asked to keep it on. I thought perhaps he had unsightly pit stains from hanging drywall earlier in the day or something, but realized that must be restaurant policy. I guess there was no relaxed dress code after all, and I was basking in my smugness of both bringing a jacket and tie and not having thought of taking either one off before sitting down. The new groom was a chef on the East coast, it turns out</span><span class="st">, and the couple had planned their entire wedding around coming this very restaurant. </span><br />
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#2 GOUGERES - Also not on the menu were these small tasty round pastries filled with Gruyère cheese. Rich and tastly insides around a delicate and crunchy shell, they were definitely enough to get the palette warmed up and ready for more.<br />
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#3 BUTTERNUT SOUP - The first real courses arrived at last, ones we both respectively placed at the top of an amazing night of dishes. My wife had a butternut soup as a substitute for shellfish, and found it hard not to lick the remnants out of the cup when she was done.<br />
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OYSTER AND PEARLS - This consists of Island Creek oysters and White Sturgeon caviar on "Sabayon" of Pearl tapioca base. The saltiness of the caviar perfectly complemented the creaminess of the oysters and subtle sweetness of the tapioca in a way that was just magical.<br />
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#4 - BREAD PASTRY ROLL - Next, we got served fresh bread rolls. While they probably don't count as a real course on their own, French Laundry doesn't do anything half way. We were served two types of freshly made butter, the first from the local "Animal Farm" (where some butters are apparently more equal than others) and the second from a place I don't recall but is probably hand churned from milk of purebred French pygmy cows. Being in Napa, most of the ingredients are locally sourced, and the restaurant even grows many of its own veggies in a garden across the road.<br />
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Periodically during the evening, our Bread Server also came by to offer us additional selections from a plate of fresh mini loafs. We had our choice of a mini baguette ("French" of course), mini sourdough, mini multi-grain, and mini pretzel (though I thought the pretzel bread really qualified as super-sized since it was like a soft pretzel only bigger...and not pretzel shaped). <br />
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#5 - MOULARD DUCK FOIS GRAS EN TERRINE - The next dish for me was the Foie Gras, which reads like it should be pronounced "phooey grass" and be something you ask the French laundry to scrub off the knees of your child's mime pants. Instead, spoken correctly as "fwah-grah" it reminded me of the unintelligible sound all the adults make when they speak in Charlie Brown holiday specials. The Fois Gras was another one of my favorites, richly sweet and not at all bitter (considering it's made of duck liver fat), and well worth the $25.54 IMHO.<br />
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The Fois Gras is served with English cucumber relish, pickled pearl onions, burgundy mustard, and bottomless brioche toast points that reminded me of the cheesy toast as the Sizzler, but tastier, smaller and of course more French. As the brioche is to be eaten warm, the Brioche Server replaced my toast with new warm ones when I mistakenly took too long to eat them all and made the faux pas of letting them approach dangerously close to room temperature.<br />
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Of course the Fois Gras came with three types of salt to sprinkle on it: Montana "Jurassic" salt from an ancient inland sea, greenish Japanese Sea Brine, and a Parisian Grey rocky salt that I don't quite recall but am sure it was extraordinary.<br />
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CHICKPEA CROQUETTES - My wife got the chickpea croquettes, which looked like little French pine cones that she insisted was worlds better tasting. They came with avocado, fava tips, orange in a charred eggplant puree.<br />
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As we waited for our next course, we glanced around and our neighbors at the next table. They were a course or two behind us but seemed to already be taking the lead in the wine department. I guess they decided to try the full wine pairing experience. We recalled from the wine list that wines by the glass were about $47 each, so we figured the dinner must a wedding present. I was in no hurry to finish my first glass.<br />
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#6 GRILLED PAVE OF SPANISH MACKEREL - The next dish was the fish course. I got the mackerel with serrano ham, artichokes and arugula, while my wife got the sea bass. The fish was perfectly prepared, but I definitely had fish envy when I tried my wife's sea bass, which was moist, buttery tasting, and even more exceptional.<br />
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About this time, a nicely dressed older couple joined us at the third table in our romantic alcove. We didn't think anything of it, but were surprised to see the gentleman get up and quietly leave after ten or so minutes, followed by the lady a few minutes later.<br />
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"Sticker shock!" we overheard the waiter explain to our lone surviving neighbors. We inquired ourselves and found out that the older couple were returning after having last visited French Laundry when it was a different (and no doubt more affordable) restaurant of the same name back in the 70's. We were told that the building had once indeed been a French steam laundry, and hence the origins of the current name. It had also at other times been both a saloon and brothel, though it was unclear whether this was at the same time. This newly found knowledge started us conjecturing about the prior configuration and use of our small alcove, and we amused ourselves by noting that it was about the right size for a few pieces of furniture and one well used bed. No doubt there was a more relaxed dress code back then.<br />
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#7 SWEET BUTTER-POACHED MAINE LOBSTER "FRICASSEE" - I've always thought of lobster as a "carrier food" meaning that it has little taste or character of its own but acts primarily as a delivery mechanism for butter, much as potato skins act as a delivery mechanism for bacon bits or Keanu Reeves acts as a delivery mechanism for dialogue which--if there is truly Mercy in the universe--does not require any use of an English accent.<br />
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The lobster in my next dish, however, was tender and tasty in its own right. Accompanied by Hobbs' bacon, San Marzano tomato compote, romaine lettuce and ranch dressing. It spoiled me forever more.<br />
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Alas, by comparison from now on, lobster anywhere else will be just a giant bug that eats dirt at the bottom of the ocean... smothered in butter. I guess with butter it would still be okay.<br />
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#8 LIBERTY FARM PEKIN DUCK - Next was the Best Duck Ever, apparently straight from Pekin, France. Tender and subtle on the outside, seared and crunchy yet delicate on the outside, it was accompanied by garden turnips and Pearson's Farm pecans.<br />
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At this point, the new bride next to us was probably on her fifth or sixth drink, leading here to be pleasantly chatty. I decided to follow her lead and live on the edge with a second drink of my own. In retrospect, I probably should have asked the Sommelier to pair something appropriate this point in the meal, but instead showed my lack of sophistication and just asked for another Reisling. <br />
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My wife had had enough wine for the evening, however, and excused herself to visit the French Restroom. As soon as she left, our Napkin Server replaced her napkin with a clean, folded one. Our Bathroom Server already knew she had left her seat, and had already appeared at the top of the stairs, ready to direct her to an available restroom.<br />
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#9 SNAKE RIVER FARMS "CALOTTE DE BOEUF GRILLEE" - The next course was some of the Best Beef Steak I've Ever had. It shared a plate with brisket pierogi (a kind of Polish pot-sticker), king trumpet mushroom, Arrowleaf spinach, Nantes carrots, and Bordelaise sauce. Everyone knows what steak tastes like. Just imagine it better from the folks that invented fries. We were starting to get really full at this point, and I "had to" help my wife finish her portion. Yum.<br />
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#10 ANDANTE DAIRY "PARTITA" - I didn't get a picture of it, but the next dish was a cheese plate, and the only dish we didn't really care for. The cheese was soft and had a strong smoky (stinky) flavor, which cheese connoisseurs would probably appreciate but was well above my "cheesophistication" level. It was accompanied by sides of Michigan sour cherries and candied pine nuts, which we ate instead.<br />
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#11 CREAM YOGURT SHERBET - With toasted oats, pomegranate, Oxalis, and Osmanthus "Nuage". The ice cream, oats, and pomegranate we all delicious, but I have no idea what a "nuage" is. Wikipedia says that Oxalis and Osmanthus of flowers, however, so it must of been that lump of fluffy light stuff.on the side that tasted like a bit of flower flavored foam. <br />
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#12 MEYER LEMON PARFAIT - Our third dessert was a plate of full on sweets, with French poppy seed ice cream, French Sicilian pistachios, and French Oregon huckleberries. We were running as low on stomach capacity as I am now of complimentary food adjectives, but is was too good to leave any on the plate.<br />
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#13 SPONGE CAKE - Being a birthday celebration, we were pleasantly surprised with a small sponge cake topped with a lit candle and chocolate wafers to celebrate the occasion. <br />
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#14 COFFEE AND DOUGHNUTS - Even though we were stuffed at this point, we were treated to one final desert of cinnamon sugared doughnut holes, candied macadamia nuts, and a “Cappuccino Semifreddo” which resembled a frothy coffee flavored ice cream. We downed the cappuccinos (being mindful to properly stick out our pinkie fingers while doing so), and tastefully pocketed the nuts and doughnut holes for later, being careful to do so in the most sophisticated way.<br />
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<div style="text-align: left;">If that weren't enough, after our meal, we were presented with a gift bag with numerous celebratory take-home items, including copies of the menus, handmade truffles, shortbread cookies, and chocolate. We also tossed in the clothespins figuring if they didn't want us to take them they wouldn't have printed their phone numbers onto them. I supposed the phone numbers could be there for a Good Samaritan to call after rescuing one from thieving former patrons, but we decided they would have a better life if liberated them from their daily napkin holding duties.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">When we were done, the evening's tab approached $700, but we didn't regret it one bit. In fact, we are already scheming for another excuse for which we can again experience the Best Restaurant in the World.<br />
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PS: for a more thorough description of the food, <a href="http://guidinglittlemonkeys.blogspot.com/2012/02/french-laundry.html?spref=fb" target="_blank">see my wife's blog</a> <br />
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</a></div>MakerMonkeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05791331445343616307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8206308677692819527.post-10019371866869600112012-01-17T12:47:00.001-08:002012-03-09T10:50:01.050-08:00Man Cave Part I - PlanningHooray! I know I'm not the only one relieved to put the chaos of the Holiday season behind. Time to ring in the New Year and all the projects it will bring.<br />
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With most of the urgent honey-do tasks checked off, it's time to create a dedicated environment for future make-worthy projects. Yes, time to create the MAN CAVE!<br />
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Heh. I feel like such a rebel using a<a href="http://www.thejanedough.com/man-cave-banned/" target="_blank"> banned phrase for 2012</a>!<br />
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Unfortunately, unlike folks who live in some <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ea1PREPwfnI" target="_blank">cowtastic</a> parts of the world, Mama monkey and I aren't fortunate enough to have a typical basement to renovate for this purpose. We do, however, have a three-car garage, one bay of which I've appropriated for my own fantastic, albeit Lilliputian retreat.<br />
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The garage is one large room with a large roll-up door in front of two parking spots, and a small single door in front of the third. The plan is to carve out most of the third bay into a room (formally a storage room) that can serve as part shop, part office, and part tinkering space. The garage door would be left in place, as would a few feet behind it to serve as storage for sporting equipment and parking for my classic Italian <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cl8VDxN5Nxs" target="_blank">scooter</a>.<br />
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</div>Keeping the garage door poses a few tricky issues, as I want the cave to be a closed area that maintains a fire safety barrier from the rest of the garage. The door track overhangs at about 8 feet, so the last few feet of the cave would need a dropped ceiling a little lower than the full height of the garage. To do this and make everything fit, I needed to sketch out a few things, which I was able to do easily using <a href="http://www.tealpoint.com/softpnt.htm" target="_blank">TealPaint</a> on my mobile phone.<br />
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After a lot of fiddling, I figured out a layout that seemed to work best. Power tools would be kept at one side of the cave, with saws mounted on a mobile tool cart (future project) where it could be wheeled outside through an existing side door for most work. A new solid-core door would be added for access to the rest of the garage, as would a smaller door leading to the scooter parking. To pass through some light from the garage door windows, two rows of glass block (with 1-hour fire rating) would be added to the adjacent wall. <br />
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I roughed in the walls with 2x4 lumber nailed to a pressure-treated sole plates screwed into the concrete floor below with TapCon fasteners. It still doesn't look like much, but it was nice to finally get to the point where you can start to get a feel for how the space will work.<br />
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</a></div>MakerMonkeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05791331445343616307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8206308677692819527.post-648358739420011722011-12-06T07:26:00.000-08:002011-12-06T07:37:46.674-08:00Finishing the KitchenWith the kitchen remodel almost complete, all that was needed was the addition of a few items. The first was paint. DW chose a dark burnt orange (Behr "summer heat") paint, which we thought would look great against the dark brown/black cabinets we recently finished painting.<br />
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For the walls, we chose Behr Premium Ultra paint from Home Depot. I'm thoroughly impressed with this stuff and find it well worth the extra cost. Not only does it cover well, but it's so thick that is sticks on brushes and rollers and doesn't drip all over the place, allowing you to paint without masking everything off if you're careful. We completed painting in about one and a half coats.<br />
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The newly painted walls, however, highlighted another flaw. For some reason, when Discovery Homes built the monkey cave, they really skimped on some of the details. While they peppered some upscale features within the very nice floor plan, a lot of the finishing bits needed help. The windows, in particular, had no casement trim of any kind, only simple sills plopped at the bottom of otherwise bare openings. I suppose some would consider this a perfectly acceptable modern look, but to me they looked painfully unfinished, especially for the upscale look we were going for.<br />
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To address this, I've steadily been trimming out the windows in the house, adding both flat trim to the inside surfaces of the opening and wide, simple casement moldings to the front face. I'd had to stop for awhile due to the failure of my Black and Decker nail gun (detailed in my last post), but with the purchase of my new Dewalt cordless nailer, I'm now back in business.<br />
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With the new gun, a little help, and a little time on the table and miter saws, the five windows came together in quick order. My "little help" below is shown applying some glue to the corner miters.<br />
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The final touch was some additional task lighting for the nook, island, and counter tops. Luckily, Home Depot is clearing out some lines of their Hampton Bay lighting collection at drastic discounts. We picked up three small lighting pendants for $7 each (normally $30), and a dangling large pendant for $10. I tied new fixture boxes into the existing overhead lights for a drastically improved look. <br />
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For the under-counter lighting, I scored two 16-foot reels of cuttable, stick-on strip lighting at <a href="http://www.ledwholesalers.com/" target="_blank">LED Wholesalers</a>. They were a steal at $12 each, and only needed a few 12V transformers, which I picked up on eBay, to complete the set.<br />
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For a budget remodel, I think we came up pretty well. Here are the numbers:<br />
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<center><table border="1"><tbody>
<tr><td><blockquote><br />
<div style="text-align: right;"><b>Kitchen Remodel Budget:</b></div><div style="text-align: right;">Primer (cabinets) - $25 </div><div style="text-align: right;">Water Alkyd Hybrid Paint (cabinets) - $30</div><div style="text-align: right;">Knobs - $60</div><div style="text-align: right;">Window Trim - $400</div><div style="text-align: right;">Wall Paint - $25 </div><div style="text-align: right;">Pendant Lights - $30 </div><div style="text-align: right;">Electrical Supplies - $25 </div><div style="text-align: right;">LED Lights/Transformers - $55</div><div style="text-align: right;">Misc Paint Supplies - $100 </div><div style="text-align: right;"><b>Total: $750</b></div></blockquote></td></tr>
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<br />
Before:<br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-swm0amXCXmU/TrGxccuCbcI/AAAAAAAAAAc/9WwZ_l6NOxs/s1600/306494_2365707193663_1579916343_32309292_193579164_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-swm0amXCXmU/TrGxccuCbcI/AAAAAAAAAAc/9WwZ_l6NOxs/s1600/306494_2365707193663_1579916343_32309292_193579164_n.jpg" /></a> </div>After (sans LED lighting):<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bJ9SuLjcBBg/Tt4x4dGzgSI/AAAAAAAAADo/_43GiMyRqa4/s1600/IMGP1880.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bJ9SuLjcBBg/Tt4x4dGzgSI/AAAAAAAAADo/_43GiMyRqa4/s320/IMGP1880.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>MakerMonkeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05791331445343616307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8206308677692819527.post-71530224108943867622011-11-04T09:30:00.000-07:002011-11-04T09:33:13.409-07:00Tales of a New GunTo anybody who does even a modest amount of carpentry, I strongly recommend at some point getting a nail gun for doing finishing work. There are many times when glue just isn't secure enough, and even more when manually hammering in a finishing nail just knocks around the pieces too much for precise work.<br />
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A few years ago, I got my first 18-gauge pneumatic nailer to do some fence repair work at the old Monkey Cave. I got it for next to nothing at <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/" target="_blank">Harbor Freight Tools</a> (of course) and marvelled at how quickly I could staples or brads up to 2 inches and use them to fasten the redwood trim in a fraction of the time that hand nailing would have taken. Not only was the process fast, but the nail holes were so much smaller and cleaner than anything I could have done manually.<br />
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When we acquired our new Monkey Cave, however, it was the interior that needed some carpentry work. The windows had no casings, and looked sad in their moulding-free nakedness. I realized that I didn't want to lug a compressor and dirty hoses throughout the semi-furnished house, so I started looking into cordless options.<br />
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In the end, I purchased the Firestorm FS1802BNB, an 18V, 18-gauge nailer from Black and Decker. In a class of its own, the Firestorm is priced very affordably (about $180), but is powerful to shoot a 2-inch nail into solid wood.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ht7IZz3iBns/TrQSqpYcs8I/AAAAAAAAABw/A2PQBFzhPJw/s1600/firestorm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ht7IZz3iBns/TrQSqpYcs8I/AAAAAAAAABw/A2PQBFzhPJw/s1600/firestorm.jpg" /></a></div><br />
The Firestorm was a lifesaver when putting up the window casings. While slower than an air-powered nailer, this gun was clean, powerful, and lasted forever on one charge. The process was simple; push the gun "nozzle" up against the work, press the trigger, then wait about a second for the unit to wind up and shoot the nail into the work with muffled "bang".<br />
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Alas, before long, the fun was gone. The nailer suddenly stopped working one day for no apparent reason. Luckily, it is backed by Black and Decker's full 2-year warranty (for non-commercial use), so I brought it into a local shop for repair. After three months, I was informed that the unit was not repairable, and since B&D has since stopped producing the unit, they offered to send me a check for a full refund.<br />
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Now that I had been spoiled by hose-free nailing, I immediately started looking for a replacement for the Firestorm that hopefully wouldn't break the bank. Since the Firestorm was designed for home use, it was designed to be affordable. However, other nailers are designed for contractors, and tended to use more expensive technology. The Firestorm used some sort of "wind up" mechanism that started when you pressed the trigger. This caused a delay in firing that no contractor would tolerate. <br />
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I found that many of the other "battery-operated" nailers only use the battery to control an air valve, and that a small compressed-air cartridge actually provides the driving force. The cartridges are consumable, however, so they're another thing to constantly have to use up and buy. Hmm. Do not want.<br />
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Fortunately, Dewalt makes a fully cordless nailer that gets good reviews. It doesn't need air cartridges, and seems to use some sort of internal flywheel that spins up as soon as you press the nozzle against the work.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P4f-eI0OUuI/TrQSvKhTW3I/AAAAAAAAAB4/6Tl4vqWcFHM/s1600/dc608k_k1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P4f-eI0OUuI/TrQSvKhTW3I/AAAAAAAAAB4/6Tl4vqWcFHM/s1600/dc608k_k1.jpg" /></a></div><br />
The DC608K "kit" version includes a battery, charger, and case, and normally sells for about $280. I was able to get a refurbished unit of for only $180 (about the same as the Firestorm!) and this is even covered by Dewalt's three-year warranty. I'll report back later after putting it through its paces.MakerMonkeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05791331445343616307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8206308677692819527.post-81331391321299257542011-11-02T14:21:00.000-07:002011-11-03T08:15:13.365-07:00MakerMonkey Battles the OC'OC' as in Orange Cabinets, that is.<br />
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For some strange reason, five years ago, when the makers of our new Monkey Cave built the place, they chose to install cabinets of surprisingly good quality, but tinted the most hideous shade of orange known to man (or monkey). Even worse, I didn't think it possible, but for some strange reason, the finish they used to coat the things is strangely <b>water soluble(!)</b> to the extent that stains from water droplets from the previous owner had discolored the cabinets throughout the house. Yikes!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UMRnIsX3ta4/TrKv5CcWd1I/AAAAAAAAABo/5GcCWjWXCMM/s1600/CabinetCrop.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UMRnIsX3ta4/TrKv5CcWd1I/AAAAAAAAABo/5GcCWjWXCMM/s320/CabinetCrop.png" width="270" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0Tgcx-P2kwY/TrGxTBdFd3I/AAAAAAAAAAU/UjtpfVavHYM/s1600/CIMG0515.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
</a></div><br />
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Of course, we decided to refinish these cabinets, which consist of some 111 doors and drawer fronts spread throughout the house. The plan was to paint them, since sanding all the nooks and crannies would be next to impossible. We choose a semi-gloss black/brown, figuring that a color this dark would be nearly indistinguishable from stain, especially if topped with a satin wipe-on poly clearcoat.<br />
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Surprisingly, a very, very, dark brown paint is impossible to find. The closest I could find is Sherwin Williams "Bittersweet Chocolate", which has the right tone but is still many shades too light. In the end, I ended up mixing my own color from a black and two browns and having a local Ace Hardware color-match the result. I'm very happy with the results.<br />
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If you are curious, here is the formula, which fills the paint can to the very very top with pigment:<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">Base: Neutral 340 (Quart)</div><br />
<center><table border="1" cellpadding="3"><tbody>
<tr><td>B: </td><td>3Y </td><td align="right">14.500/48</td></tr>
<tr><td>C: </td><td>0Y </td><td align="right">2.000/48</td></tr>
<tr><td>F: </td><td>0Y </td><td align="right">20.000/48</td></tr>
<tr><td>KX: </td><td>0Y </td><td align="right">8.000/48</td></tr>
<tr><td>L: </td><td>0Y </td><td align="right">2.500/48</td></tr>
<tr><td>V: </td><td>0Y </td><td align="right">6.000/48</td></tr>
<tr><td>I: </td><td>0Y </td><td align="right">22.000/48</td></tr>
</tbody></table></center><br />
And the result before:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-swm0amXCXmU/TrGxccuCbcI/AAAAAAAAAAc/9WwZ_l6NOxs/s1600/306494_2365707193663_1579916343_32309292_193579164_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-swm0amXCXmU/TrGxccuCbcI/AAAAAAAAAAc/9WwZ_l6NOxs/s1600/306494_2365707193663_1579916343_32309292_193579164_n.jpg" /></a></div><br />
and after:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xHyJsmltPxk/TrGxh29Dw4I/AAAAAAAAAAk/r8U-XAnuHlk/s1600/300529_2365712473795_1579916343_32309293_527260850_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xHyJsmltPxk/TrGxh29Dw4I/AAAAAAAAAAk/r8U-XAnuHlk/s320/300529_2365712473795_1579916343_32309293_527260850_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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Incidentally, I learned two important lessons in doing all this.<br />
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First, tintable oil-based paints are really hard to find, and getting them in California in a gallon-sized can or in semigloss is nearly impossible. Fortunately, a few manufacturers have recently come out with new "hybrid" paints that have the durable Alkyd tints used in oil-based paints, but suspend them in water instead of oil. I used this, and got the best of both worlds!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zk-Afq-axoY/TrKnMb6euAI/AAAAAAAAABg/ynW9gtOiQrE/s1600/CIMG0524.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zk-Afq-axoY/TrKnMb6euAI/AAAAAAAAABg/ynW9gtOiQrE/s320/CIMG0524.jpg" width="239" /></a></div><br />
Second, I found that when using a spray gun to apply paint on the doors (I rolled the cabinets frames), it's critical to be really disciplined with:<br />
<ul><li> spraying straight lines across the entire surface without stopping or changing direction </li>
<li> overlapping neighboring passes perfectly by 50% </li>
<li>angling the spray head and progressing in the forward direction so that any over-spray is directed towards the unpainted part of the door instead of the part you've already painted. </li>
</ul>Otherwise, any over-spray or pauses in spraying will be visible as uneven streaks in the gloss after the paint dries. Then, you'll have to paint those doors all over again (like I did).MakerMonkeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05791331445343616307noreply@blogger.com0